Thread: are roller tipped rockers worth the investment?

Tweet

I'm going to buy 1.6 rockers for my 200 I6, I have 1.5's right now. but 1.6 roller tipped rockers are made for the 144-250's and also full roller 1.65 rockers are made. would it be a good investment to get the roller tipped or full rollers over stock adjustable 1.6 rockers? the roller tipped rockers are about $120 more than the stock adjustable 1.6's, full rollers are approx $100 more than the roller tipped rockers, which should I get?

matt i like full rollers. the roller tip may help. but all the trouble is at the ball and you still have them on a roller tip. a roller you get a truion for more load but if you are driving this a lot then go to steel stamped rockers the pins in the truions in time may get beat out.

Originally Posted by Matt167

I'm going to buy 1.6 rockers for my 200 I6, I have 1.5's right now. but 1.6 roller tipped rockers are made for the 144-250's and also full roller 1.65 rockers are made. would it be a good investment to get the roller tipped or full rollers over stock adjustable 1.6 rockers? the roller tipped rockers are about $120 more than the stock adjustable 1.6's, full rollers are approx $100 more than the roller tipped rockers, which should I get?

Don't forget that the 1.6 add's more lift.
Factor that in when you look at valve springs.

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

matt i like full rollers. the roller tip may help. but all the trouble is at the ball and you still have them on a roller tip. a roller you get a truion for more load but if you are driving this a lot then go to steel stamped rockers the pins in the truions in time may get beat out.

yeah, I'm gonna drive it on the street. I was going to use it as a daily driver but, maby I'll get somthing diffrent for that.

Originally Posted by Matt167

yeah, I'm gonna drive it on the street. I was going to use it as a daily driver but, maby I'll get something diffrent for that.

less than 3000 miles a year run full rollers watch out for your push rods check for the right length and look at the slots in the heads that the pushrods do not work off them when going to more ratio

Originally Posted by erik erikson

Don't forget that the 1.6 add's more lift.
Factor that in when you look at valve springs.

6.7% more lift at the valve to be exact. yeah I realize I need to make shure of the springs I get will work. plan on getting a cam with about .440 lift each. stock springs will work with lifts up to .480 so that would work out to .474, I don't want to get into coil bind so I'll get a spring that will allow more lift. stock 302 springs work but I'm not shure on there lift specs.

Just a word of caution, Matt. Don't run out and buy the cheapest on the market, stick with the name brand stuff. I run the Comp Cams Moly arms and as of yet have never suffered a failure on the street or racing. As with anything else, you are going to get what you pay for.......

We played with the longer ratio arms some. On the dyno we got some very interesting results running them on just the exhausts. That was with a roller cam though. Not sure the results would be the same with a flat tappet cam.... Erik, Pat, help me out here!!!!!

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Just a word of caution, Matt. Don't run out and buy the cheapest on the market, stick with the name brand stuff. I run the Comp Cams Moly arms and as of yet have never suffered a failure on the street or racing. As with anything else, you are going to get what you pay for.......

We played with the longer ratio arms some. On the dyno we got some very interesting results running them on just the exhausts. That was with a roller cam though. Not sure the results would be the same with a flat tappet cam.... Erik, Pat, help me out here!!!!!

Comp cams dosn't make the full roller rockers, there made by Yella Terra which I think is an Australlian company, because the real technology for these 6's come from Australlia ( particularly OZ cyl heads ). here's the page with the rocker shafts

http://classicinlines.com/products.asp?cat=24

i had 1.6 harland sharps on a 4.3 this was my driver i bet they had 10.000 on them and still where ok when i soild it so matt like dave S said this is on places to get cheap sorry dave i can not help here but to say i not a big fan of the new trend for super big rocker ratios was talking to a guy that was running 1.8?? on some killer small block i just do not know how they keep the valve springs in them

Well, I don't know who makes them but they come in a Comp Cams box and they don't break. Some of the cheapie aluminum ones are just flimsy cast pieces and will bust without a moments notice.....

Here's a pic of the ones that I use....

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Well, I don't know who makes them but they come in a Comp Cams box and they don't break. Some of the cheapie aluminum ones are just flimsy cast pieces and will bust without a moments notice.....

Oh, dave I didn't mean to say Comp cams dosn't make roller rockers at all, I meant to say they do not make them for the 144-250 I6's, the 1's I'm talking about are on the site I posted.

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

i had 1.6 harland sharps on a 4.3 this was my driver i bet they had 10.000 on them and still where ok when i soild it so matt like dave S said this is on places to get cheap sorry dave i can not help here but to say i not a big fan of the new trend for super big rocker ratios was talking to a guy that was running 1.8?? on some killer small block i just do not know how they keep the valve springs in them

We never went that big, just 1.6 and 1.7 on the exhaust side. For whatever reason (exhaust scavenging manybe) seemed to extend the hi torque range by about 800 RPM on the dyno. Probably nothing that would ever matter on the street.....???? Coil bind does become an issue, along with tipping the rocker past the center of the valve stem.....

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Well, I don't know who makes them but they come in a Comp Cams box and they don't break. Some of the cheapie aluminum ones are just flimsy cast pieces and will bust without a moments notice.....

Here's a pic of the ones that I use....

here's the full roller rockers, they are 1.65 ratio. the 144-250's use a rocker shaft rather than individual rockers.

oh yeah, is that six a rocker shaft affair still????

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

We never went that big, just 1.6 and 1.7 on the exhaust side. For whatever reason (exhaust scavenging manybe) seemed to extend the hi torque range by about 800 RPM on the dyno. Probably nothing that would ever matter on the street.....???? Coil bind does become an issue, along with tipping the rocker past the center of the valve stem.....

Yes,Dave the increased rocker arm ratio on the exhaust side will help to wake it up if your intake to exhaust ratio is a little off.