Thread: which engine? 383 stroker or 396?

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I have a 1980 camaro z 28, with a built 350 in it right now. I have saved up enough money to buy a 396 engine built pretty nicely (it came out of a 70 chevelle. Not exact on the year) or stroke my 350 to a 383. Which would be better? im only 19 years old, and I love old cars more then anything, but I don't know that much about them, and nobody around here (where I live) seems to care to give me advice. Which would be better for performance and value??? All help is greatly appreciated.

How much money have you got saved up? Even a stock 454 can be a serious performer just by milling the heads and adding some camshaft. A 454 HO from GM is 5 grand. 383's start at 4 grand from GM.

Im a fan of small blocks, you will have fun either way, i wouldnt build a 396 no matter what, too many probs with them in my opinion, why dont you just build that 350? not stroke it, just build it? You will be in debt more by building a big block anyways, plus it shouldnt take that much to get that camaro moving, it dont weigh that much, i also like the sound of a small block turning them rpms, nothing like 7500 high side rev.

Hey,
I have 1,700 dollars saved up. The 396 is setting on a stand in a garage, I haven't seen it yet, but I have heard that it is built to the max almost. The guy wants 1,500 for it. I guess thats not too bad. I called summit racing and they can ship me a 383 stroker kit for $1,200. The guy told me thats not a rebuild kit, thats the real deal? I guess. My 350 that I have in my camaro now is bored .30 over, has a eldelbrock high performance cam (I think a 492? not sure) eldelbrock 650 carb. Eldelbrock intake, hooker headers. Thanks for the help, Im clueless about this stuff. Which one would run better? the stroker or 396?? thanks everyone!!

Which would run better? as long as its a chevy i dont think it matters

From personal experience having seen guys buy an individuals rebuild I would be a little cautious on buying an engine that I couldn't at least hear run (and more preferably drive). If it's a fresh engine, I would check with the machine shop who did the work and also find out who did the assembly.

One particular exampe that comes to mind is a customer who bought a never fired engine that someone (who was moving) had for sale. The machine work had been done by a good local machine shop and the owner had done the assembly himself. I was paid to tear the engine down and inspect it before it went into the car. The guy who built it did pretty good except for one little thing, HE PUT THE MAIN BEARINGS IN UPSIDE DOWN. Had we fired the engine it would have shown great oil pressure up till the moment it seized which would have been almost immediatly after it started.

....."Use the BB or even a 454 if you want balls..it'll bolt right in to the 350 mounts and tranny too..."

What streets says about the BB is true but really not as simple or cheap as it sounds. You will also need to use heavier front springs, build a new exhaust, find the brackets for the accessories and likely need a bigger radiator.

On the other hand, building a 383 stroker will not be as cheap as it sounds either. To do it right the block will need to be clearanced for the crank throws, bored, vatted, new cam bearings installed, and the heads gone through.

Good luck on which ever way you decide to go.

thanks everyone.. I can see more clearly now and understand what to buy and what not to. Im still undecided about which one im going to get, where I live everyone I mean everyone has mustangs, and there parents throw them as much money as the want and they are cocky little rich a**holes , so I'm just saving my money and I want something to shut them up. thanks again!!!

oh yeah I almost forgot, One guy around here suggested that I sell my chevy, he said they are a waste of time and buy an old dodge or mopar. could that be considered?? lol.. take it easy on me.. lol.. im not the one that said that..

we have one or two

Originally posted by Ed Vedder
oh yeah I almost forgot, One guy around here suggested that I sell my chevy, he said they are a waste of time and buy an old dodge or mopar. could that be considered?? lol.. take it easy on me.. lol.. im not the one that said that..

Hummmmmmmm..... I like a good challenge.

Ifn' I were in your shoes I would see if I could get the small block to run a little while longer soz' i could save up a little more for a mountain motor and a few goodie's to keep the Maro from twistin' into a pretzel from the new found torque ................. then let the Bowtie do the talkin'. ................. He He HE

Sorry Dave, Gotta' agree wit' Streets, Bowtie rules.............

My experience:

- Never buy an engine you can't hear run and thoroughly check out unless you're willing to tear it down, evaluate and rebuild if necessary.

- The only thing that beats cubic inches is cubic dollars.

- If you can get a ratmotor with 454 inches, why consider one with 396 - unless your granny gave it to you? Oh, then think twice.

- Even a low performance 454 with an iron crank and oval port heads can run like a scaldedarsecat with the right cam, carburetor, distributor curve and a little head work. In fact, on the street, the oval port heads make power down where you need it. I pulled one out of a late 60's (I think) station wagon, rebuilt it, put in a Comp Cams 292 magnum kit, 3-angle valve jog, balanced it, dual plane manifold, 780 Holley, headers. It ran high elevens / low twelves on street tires and closed exhaust in my 30 A-bone sedan.

the more likely it is that the lion's share of ur activity with ur ride is goin to b street with exhaust in place the more advantageous it is to use the maximum amount of cubes that u can reasonably fit into the ride.....IE, a 500hp small block will not make the tq of a 400hp big block n in drag racin tq and application of same is what accounts for a quick et, hp will account for mph, but on avg u need 50 more hp and the susequent mph increase to overcome a 25lb/ft tq shortfall....