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03-12-2007 04:56 PM #1
200 I6 finally going back togther
finially starting to go back togther after several months ( car's been under the light since the fall, Nov I think ) and the current cost is just over $3,000 but soon to go up...again.
anyway, friday I put in the rear main oil seal, and all the bearings, today I dropped the crank in, torqued it, and started the plastigauge prosess. so far I'v done 3 out of 7 mains. there all coming out at .002 which is ok, hopefully there all within spec. I'll have to pull out the old '74 Motors manual we have, to get the real spec. my teacher said between .001 and .002 was ok, but I seem to remember when I looked at the spec b4 that .003 was the max spec.
Still have to get a fuel preassure regulator ( getting a Aeromotive 1 for $125 ), turbo piping and couplars, and a wastegate, BOV and a intercooler ( a company on Ebay has cheap 1's for $50 but they have 2 yr warranty's )Last edited by Matt167; 03-12-2007 at 04:59 PM.
You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-12-2007 09:38 PM #2
why use a BOV? a bypass valve will actually bring your performance up a little more, sure it doesn't sound as cool.... but thats not that important... it will also prevent from back spinning your turbo which isn't that common of an issue but it still exists when using a BOVjust because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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03-13-2007 03:37 AM #3
what does a bypass valve do? force air back into the turbo inlet?You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-13-2007 08:01 AM #4
Matt sounds like a really cool project. Don't even think of the money your spending.
Sounds like your well on the way. What turbo, int etc...are you using? Maybe you can hit the bone yard for parts? Would the T bird turbo coupe stuff work maybe? Have you looked at ATR for parts? They are expensive but very good. I spent lotsa cash with them in my old GN days.
good luck bro!!
G.
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03-13-2007 01:27 PM #5
yup a bypass instead of just blowing the pressure out into the engine bay, it forces it back into the turbo, which keeps it spinning the right direction and will reduce turbo lag by a small bit..... if the turbo backspins you have a chance of having the impellers disentegrate, eating through the turbo and causing a very massive oil leak at the same timejust because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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03-13-2007 02:10 PM #6
Originally Posted by FFR428You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
-
03-13-2007 04:45 PM #7
got finished plastigauging the mains today, everything was .002, so it's all good. started to ring the pistions at the end of the period, got 2 done.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-13-2007 05:05 PM #8
That's right..... I forgot you were using the Garrett turbo. I think i have a aftermarket turbo inlet that's bigger than stock. If I can scrounge it up you can have it. I had a few of them and pretty sure it's in the tool shed.
Everything sounds nice!! Good job and can't wait to hear how it runs!!
G.
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03-13-2007 05:22 PM #9
Originally Posted by FFR428You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
-
03-13-2007 08:04 PM #10
you're gonna run a carb now? i thought you were gonna go TBI? or is that just something you're going to do later and for now just running a carb?just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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03-14-2007 03:58 AM #11
Originally Posted by thesalsYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-14-2007 04:17 AM #12
I hope you just forgot to mention the part about checking the end gap on the rings.....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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03-14-2007 02:03 PM #13
Originally Posted by Dave SeversonYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-14-2007 03:53 PM #14
today, I got all the pistions ready to go in. #1 is sitting in the bore, compressed, oiled and ready to be knocked in, but I ran out of time.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-14-2007 04:58 PM #15
My website will be updated daily throughout the engine assembly. It's updated to todays progress now.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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