Thread: $4,000 and counting
-
03-28-2007 05:47 PM #1
$4,000 and counting
well, new talley puts me above $4k in the 200 I6 turbo engine. was for wastegate, intercooler and a BOV/bypass valve. and I now have to get bronze valve guides machined ( $150 for guides and machining ) and 12 new valves ( $85 with shipping from Ford 6 parts )You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
03-28-2007 06:17 PM #2
That's more then I paid for my stroker kit and new aluminum heads for a Windsor, hope that 6 has a ton of power when it's done!!!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
03-28-2007 06:54 PM #3
dyno program is saying 324 HPYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
-
03-28-2007 07:14 PM #4
You will not see another like this and I am sure when you pop the hood ,everyone will have not seen a car like yours with a engine like that.
In my opinion your this deep into it ,you might as well add the 3 to 500 bucks and have the aluminum polished and chrome the steel to really top it off and make it look like a 10,000 dollar motor!!!
Should be just as fast as the factory z-28 and gt mustangs and impala ss,just do not try to follow them thru any turns
You went with forged pistons,if I remember right?Theres always a 150 hit of N2o to make up for any lack of performance and if you plumb it in just right you could make use of the cooling effect it has to lower the intake temp further increasing power,you just need to use more to get the same effect using it in that manner.I can see 400 to 450 on the dyno with spray.I am sure that will be more than enuff for that car unless you go all prostreet with it.
I would also detail the engine bay real well to make it look even nicer and make sure to use all new hoses /hose clamps and put all the wires in new plastic cover thingys. 50 to 75 bucks in this area really pays off!!Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
-
03-28-2007 08:44 PM #5
he still has to upgrade the rearend and front brakes if hes planning on using all that HP.... the 7.5" rear is gonna die fast, the one i had in my mustang went about 2 months after i put my v-8.... btw matt, if you dont go the way of granada parts, a good brakes upgrade you can get that will fit your car if you use factory v-8 spindles and rearend... check out www.vintagevenom.com I ordered the kit the other day..... it'll be nice having 4 wheel disc with large rotors..... the most expensive part is the cobra rimsjust because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
-
03-29-2007 05:53 PM #6
well guys, now this really worries me. when I did the dyno figures, I was using the old head values, with the old valve sizes from the old head, thought they were the same but, the old is 1's are 1.55/ 1.388 and the new head valves are 1.754/ 1.392. so now it says 397 HP @ 6,000, respectable 341 @ 5k, and a flat torque curve, right around 300 ft/ lb. I know my original 7 1/4" rear end will not handle it for long, maby it will hold out for a while, as the power comes in around 2k, but I'm not too shure. A Maverick or Granada 8" might be in order pretty soon.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
-
03-29-2007 06:01 PM #7
Originally Posted by shawnlee28
I'm going to have the motor look like a million dollar engine. cast aluminum valve cover, black with polished fins. Daytona yellow for the engine, with clear coat. aluminum hi temp for the exhaust manifold/ up pipe. and all of the turbo piping will ither be daytona yellow, or black. will have black turbo couplers.
I'm going to spray the engine bay b4 I drop the motor in. flat black.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
-
03-29-2007 06:15 PM #8
Originally Posted by Matt167Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
03-29-2007 06:33 PM #9
depends on how much prep he's willing to put into the engine bay of course.... black works best if you only want to put a few hours into the bay.... if you're willing to put a few days then its ok....... its amazing how much grease and gunk builds up in those small little nooks over the years.....
just so you know matt... if you use a granada rear.... the wheel spacing is different than a 60s ford, also the brakes aren't that great....but also a 67 -68 8" is hard to come by.... granada parts are even getting tougher to come by.....Last edited by thesals; 03-29-2007 at 06:35 PM.
just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
-
03-30-2007 12:43 PM #10
i can't wait to see the final product. I wonder though, 8 psi......once you spool it a couple times it's really hard to not turn the wick up. 10 psi....15psi....20psi....... boooommmmm! If you can stop yourself from doing that your more man then i am.
-
03-31-2007 01:04 AM #11
sounds like me with my nissan sentra.... i had a turbo on it and it was set at 10 when i got it.... got her up to 25 before i disentegrated the motorjust because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
-
03-31-2007 06:51 AM #12
Matt don't feel bad bro. I have $4k into just my block alone!! LOL Add heads, intake and carbs and kick it up another $4k!! And I still need slugs, rotating assy balanced and all the gaskets, bearings and hardware. But your building something very cool and unique. Like what the others have said you'll wow everyone when you lift the hood. I think it's a really cool engine and you deserve a big congrats for undertaking something out of the ordinary. Keep pluggin away and havin fun!!
G.
-
04-02-2007 04:52 PM #13
well, were counting past $4,200 now. the valve guides were shot, valves were really sloppy when I test fit them, b4 cutting the seats, so I sent the head out to have 12 bronze valve guides put in, price was quoted $150, and some of my valves were rough on the tops, which with the .495 lift cam, would wear on the new guides, so I bought 12 new valves, which was $85 for 12 thru Ford six/ Classic inlines parts. it's coming along tho, roller rockers arrived last week after a month of waiting ( they had to ship to Ford Six Parts from Australlia, so it took a while ). I put the water pump on today. tomorrow the block itself is getting color, it's going back in the car W/O head, be much easier as, there's 1 tranny bolt on the top of the motor that, could be removed/ installed from up top a lot easier, if the log/ head was not there.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
-
04-02-2007 05:31 PM #14
Originally Posted by Matt167
-
04-02-2007 05:38 PM #15
Originally Posted by erik eriksonYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird