Thread: engine flush ?

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what would cut the sludge better then diesel ?

going to drain 1quart, add half a gal diesel run for 10mins
drain.
fill it back up with 4 quarts of oil 1/2 gal of diesel run for 10mins ,
drain change filter, fill it up with 5quarts oil and drive it.

What'ya think?
can I use more diesel?

I'd use kerosene. Diesel has sulpher in it. Manufacturers used to recommend kerosene in oil before the advent of winter oils, so it won't hurt anything.
A suggestion....drain the warm oil, then dump a gallon or so of kerosene through to get any loose crud out before refilling. That crap pumping through the system won't do any good.

I'm not too tickled about either of those. Rislone was mostly Kerosene back in the day but it was all that guys knew about. I prefer BG or Macs. It has no harmful effect to the engine, does a good job, and follow directions. I guess if you sludge really is sludge, you might have to reapply the set up on the next change or tear some sheet metal off and clean it right allowing the oil to do it's job and any flushes you use to do theirs better.

My problem with any kind of flush is, where is the sludge going?? The filter can only do so much. If the engine is THAT sludged up I'd be worried about clogging the pump pick up.

Good sludge removers dissolve. The gunk is now viscous enough to come out on draining the system. No mystery really, just go with what you trust.

i'm with you on that one denny, i prefer to use tranny fluid.... it seems to do a great job cleaning gunk out of an engine, and is safer for your bearings and such than some de-gunkers

Denny is pointing out some good cautious problems with de-gunkers and a good idea about ATF. Reminder; you are probably going to have to repeat the ATF treatment a couple or a few times to attain your desired results. I asked a question earlier about the sludge. Is it really sludge, or are you trying to clean it up for longevity?

Since I use full synthetic, the only thing I have to flush is the loo.

Just trying to update some of my old posts and say "thanks for the help ".
I guess I could have given a little more info on this : I'm talking about a 99' dodge 318 w/100billion miles on it. Started with the oil pressure gauge dropping , changed sending unit checked gauge back when it started, (should have pulled it then and rebuilt ) got more frequent so pulled the pan and changed oil pump and cleaned screen (made sure the tube was tight)... kept driving it ... gauge dropped and she heard tapping up top in the front .
Parked it , talked to a buddy that works at the Chrysler dealership and got an ear full ... found out stuff is not made like they used to be, the term "throw away parts" came up several times. last resort before just buying a long block was the flush .
Then I made this post.

Now : did the flush with ATF 4 times because "I've got more elbow grease and time then cash for this one right now " there wasn't much junk , but more then I'd want to see come out of one... I like . driving it average once or twice a week about 20- 30 miles total , won't trust it till we put the new motor in it but for right now it's fixed good enough to pull the boat " because the color matches "

But the flush seemed to make a difference ,I'm running a much thicker oil now, same stuff I used to run in my diesel .

Apparently the main bearings wear completely out after 60,000 miles depending on use, we keep up on oil changes and the like, so ours made it much longer . Chrysler tech said "he was amazed it lasted so long "

T L

main bearings shouldn't only last 60,000 if treated right they should last closer to 200,000 then again it is a Chrysler product...... i personally wouldn't run too heavy of an oil in there..... lighter oils actually coat and move better than heavy oils do.......which is why a lot of a manufacturers are using 5-20 now...... i dont really know if i would reccomend running an HD 30 in a tired motor

I remember putting some 20-50 in my big block and leanin over the fender and tellin my buddie,"yeah ,this is some good thick oil" .He calmly looked back and asked ,"yeah ,but have you asked your bearings how they like it".............

Originally Posted by thesals

main bearings shouldn't only last 60,000 if treated right they should last closer to 200,000 then again it is a Chrysler product...... i personally wouldn't run too heavy of an oil in there..... lighter oils actually coat and move better than heavy oils do.......which is why a lot of a manufacturers are using 5-20 now...... i dont really know if i would reccomend running an HD 30 in a tired motor

I didn't think so either but the chrysler tech said it's the only way to keep it pumping oil to the top , and that that's the trick to get them resold "when all the smart people traded them off " from what he told me it should hold till I get back around to it , long as I don't push it (just use it to go fishing now till it's fixed) ,closer to winter . When you do a search about this type of thing it has happened to a lot of people and is a pretty big problem chrysler just never looked at or didn't tell any one about . " but all the guys at the dealership knew ALL about it "

The funny thing is we got rid of this truck ,then got it back because we knew how well it had been taken care of Great truck except for the motor,trans,rear end gearing , gas mileage and, back glass....and ...

"Wish toyota made a big one with out that big center console so it'd seat 6 COMFORTABLY plus the room in the bed "

T L

wish toyota would at least make a comfortable seat for their truck... all the seats i've sat in always feel like an old volkswagon seat, a piece of plywood with some vinyl wrapped around it....... i've always preferred ford seats myself.... they seem to do the trick.... or do i just prefer fords