Thread: Mistakes that will frag a cam

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DISCLAIMER: THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION WAS GLEANED FROM MANY DIFFERENT SOURCES. SOME OF IT MAKES SENSE TO ME AND SOME OF IT DOESN'T. USE WHAT YOU THINK IS REAL AND THROW OUT THE REST OF IT. I HAVE NOT USED ALL OF THE SUGGESTIONS LISTED HERE. THROUGH THE YEARS, I HAVE HAD MANY SUCCESSFUL BREAK-INS, BUT I HAVE ALSO ROACHED A FEW. USE THIS LIST AS A GUIDELINE SO THAT YOU REMEMBER TO CHECK ALL THESE THINGS WHEN INSTALLING A NEW CAM. DO NOT TAKE EVERYTHING POSTED HERE AS GOSPEL. IF THE MANUFACTURER OF THE CAMSHAFT YOU'RE USING RECOMMENDS PROCEDURES THAT DIFFER FROM WHAT IS SHOWN HERE, USE THE MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDATIONS TO THE LETTER AND DISREGARD THIS POST.

Mistakes that may "frag" a flat-tappet camshaft and lifters.

1. Failure to remove all rust-preventative from cam and lifters with solvent once you get them home. (This advice does not include removing coatings applied at the factory such as phosphates. It is only suggesting to remove rust-preventative grease that may or may not have been applied to the cam/lifters to prevent rust in storage. This grease will not have the extreme pressure characteristics that Molybdenum Disulphide has and should be removed so that MD can be applied properly. MD is the black, tar-like extreme-pressure grease that is recommended by some camshaft manufacturers to be applied to the lifter crowns/cam lobes for initial camshaft break-in).
2. Failure to wash the cam and lifters with hot soapy water to remove the remainder of rust-preventative not removed with solvent. CAUTION; WASH ONLY THE CROWN OF THE LIFTERS. DO NOT ALLOW WATER TO GET INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE LIFTER BODY. Dry the cam and lifter crowns thoroughly with hot air from a hot air gun or hair dryer to remove all traces of moisture before applying Molybdenum Disulfide.
3. Failure to properly massage an extreme pressure lubricant such as Molybdenum Disulfide into the pores of the metal on all lobes and lifter faces. Moly will actually bond with the metal and give maximum protection to the lifter crown/lobe.
4. Failure to use an extreme pressure lubricant additive to the engine oil for camshaft break-in.
5. Failure to use the proper valve springs for cam break-in. You can't use the 300 lb over-the-nose springs that you'll eventually use in the motor and expect the cam to live at break-in. Assemble the heads with stock or weak single springs to break in the cam, then use one of the many tools available to change the springs with the heads on the motor. Alternately, assemble the heads with the springs you will run and use reduced-ratio break-in rockers, then change out the rockers after break-in. These rockers are available from Crower in different ratios for different motors. A popular ratio for a small block Chevy would be a 1.3:1 rocker. In other words, let's say the lift at the cam is 0.350" and the theoretical lift at the valve with 1.5:1 rockers is 0.525". Using the 1.3:1 rockers would result in lift at the valve of only 0.455", thus reducing stress at the camshaft/lifter interface during the crucial break-in period.
6. Failure to check for valve spring coil bind at max lift.
7. Failure to check for retainer to valve guide/seal clearance.
8. Failure to check for binding at the rocker/stud interface.
9. Failure to check for piston/valve clearance..... 0.080" on the intake and 0.100" on the exhaust is considered by many to be the minimum clearance acceptable. You will probably find the closest near-miss at the exhaust valve on overlap, when the piston is chasing the exhaust valve back onto its seat.
10. Failure to run the motor at high rpms (2500 or higher, alternating 1000 rpm's up and/or down to allow the crank to throw oil in different places at different revs) for the first 40-45 minutes of its life. NO IDLING. NO IDLING. NO IDLING. The motor should not be run at less than 2500 rpm's for a minimum of 40 minutes. If a problem develops, shut the motor down and fix it, then resume break-in. The main source of camshaft lubrication is oil thrown off the crankshaft at speed, drainback from the oil rings and oil vapors circulating in the crankcase. At idle, the crank isn't spinning fast enough to provide sufficient oil to the camshaft for proper break-in protection.
11. Failure to clearance lifters in their bores so that they spin freely. Lifter clearance should be 0.0012" to 0.002", with 0.0015" (one and one/half thousandths) considered close to ideal. Too loose is as bad as too tight.
12. Failure to initially adjust the valves properly. Using the "spin the pushrod until it feels tight" method will normally result in valves too tight. Jiggle the pushrod up and down with your thumb/forefinger until all play is removed, then turn the rocker nut 1/2 to 3/4 turn to set the preload.
13. Failure to inspect the distributor drive gear for wear. Too much wear can allow the cam to walk in its cam bore and contact an adjacent lifter.
14. Failure to have everything ready for the motor to fire on the first few turns. Fully charged battery, good starter, known-good carburetor with full fuel bowl, source of fuel to the carburetor to allow minimum 40 minutes of uninterrupted running. Ignition timing set. NO GRINDING ON THE STARTER. NO GRINDING ON THE STARTER. NO GRINDING ON THE STARTER.
15. Failure to prime the oiling system prior to firing the motor. Prime until you get oil out of the top of each and every pushrod. Observe the oil pressure gauge to be sure pressure is registering. Priming will aid lubing the valvetrain at initial startup. It's the last area of the motor to get lubed on dry start.
Now, this last bit of advice comes from Racer Brown, the camshaft manufacturer/engineer who ground the hot cams for Chrysler Corporation during the horsepower wars of the 60's.
"Overfill the crankcase by at least 4 or 5 quarts of oil so that the oil level comes to within an inch of the top of the oil pan. Install a set of fairly hot spark plugs with a gap of 0.050" to 0.060" to prevent oil-fouling of the plugs, which is otherwise inevitable under no-load conditions with all the extra oil aboard. During this operation, we want near-maximum oil flow, together with a maximum of oil vapors and liquid oil thrashing about in the crankcase so that the cam lobe and lifter interface lubrication is considerably better than marginal."

This advice from the Racer is too scary for me, but I included it so that you know somebody, somewhere has done it.

Just a note to make you aware of the loading between the camshaft lobe and lifter crown. That pencil-point of contact, if carried out to a square inch, would be somewhere between 250,000 and 300,000 POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH.

All very good info, Tech!!! Thanks for putting it up....

BTW---would you know of anyone making some 1.3 ratio break in rockers for a SBF??? I've got a set for the BBF's but can't seem to come up with any for the Windsors?????

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

All very good info, Tech!!! Thanks for putting it up....

BTW---would you know of anyone making some 1.3 ratio break in rockers for a SBF??? I've got a set for the BBF's but can't seem to come up with any for the Windsors?????

Crower 72-884-16, 1.3:1, 7/16" studs. A man of your caliber could turn out some thin bushings to use them on a 3/8" stud.

I edited my post to include reduced ratio rockers. Thanks. Forgot about them.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Crower 72-884-16, 1.3:1, 7/16" studs. A man of your caliber could turn out some thin bushings to use them on a 3/8" stud.

Thanks Richard, never thought to check Crower!!!!! Got to get a set of them ordered!!!! I use Crower cranks in some stuff, but not their cams....

the big studs aren't a problem.... Quite sure I can get 7/16" studs in the new AFR's when I order them, anyway.... Also, with the hydraulic rollers, how much spring would you suggest for about .500 to .550 lift????

PS--busy...Looks like the cylinder head shootout is gonna be postponed til Fall......

I might be thinkin' a 325 lbs/in rate with 130-140 on the seat.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

I might be thinkin' a 325 lbs/in rate with 130-140 on the seat.

Thanks again, Richard!!!! Just ordered a set of the Crower Rockers, too. Think I'll probably still use my junk springs for run in!!! Probably not a necessity, but I have them, so why not? Whatcha think???

Oh yeah.... World Products has the Roush 180 and 200 heads available now in cast iron, their site sez aluminum will be released eventually---- Supposedly some substantial improvements in the runners and chamber.... How do you think they stack up against the AFR heads of similar CC??? I've had nothing but good luck with AFR's, but if the Roush heads is better..........

Maybe you should just come up this summer and build the dang thing for me too, huh????