Thread: 302 Clevor build?

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If you did use the old cleveland head you would have to use the cleveland pistons as well because they are fly cut for the valves. You should not use a regular 302 piston and rods as stated above. Or you might find the pistons and the valves smacking each other out of the motor. You would need 289 rods with a good cleveland type piston.
Kurt

the boss 302 was basicly a 302 with cleveland heads. but you need to drill a water out let in the cleveland heads. the cleveland engines have the water passage running thru the block,the intake has no water passages.i think you would be better off building the 400.before you condem the 400 check out the winner of the engine master contest which is sponsered by popular hotrodding magazine.

1).What type of cam should i use with the 2V cleveland heads in a street car with a Auto trans.?

2).I hear people over cam and/or carb their engines?

3).Also I'm working on the heads. I tore them down and I'm going to rebuild them. Now i know a valve job is always a good idea and i also hear a lot about port and polishing the heads . Can someone explain the process and if and how much it would help?

4).I also want to know if going with roller rockers can really give you 15 to 20 HP?

I know its a lot to askI'm still learning

Originally Posted by Dano61

3).Also I'm working on the heads. I tore them down and I'm going to rebuild them. Now i know a valve job is always a good idea and i also hear a lot about port and polishing the heads . Can someone explain the process and if and how much it would help?

Porting and polishing is a term left over from the days of flatheads. Most of us don't use it anymore, using only the words ported or porting. Reason is, current thinking is to leave the intakes rough so that fuel drop-out will be picked back up with the wind going over the rough surface, whereas if the surface were smooth (polished), the fuel would remain out of suspension and be gulped in as soon as there was sufficient airspeed, loading the cylinder with unburnable fuel. Now, on the other hand, current thinking has the exhaust ports polished smooth.

Having the knowledge to port heads takes a long time to learn. You don't just pick up a rotary grinder and start hogging out a port without knowing if you are helping or hurting. (And it's much easier to hurt than it is to help).

By the way, there is still an intake manifold available for the Clevor....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7129/

As far as trying to whip this guy just because he's a blowhard, that's kinda silly in my opinion. You're gonna be encountering these shmoes throughout your lifetime. Are you gonna let all of 'em get to you like this? If so, you're in for a tough ride through life.

What about a cam how do i pick a cam? Oh also do I buy timing gears for a 302 or a 351C since I'm using the 351C cam? Should i update the lifter?

techinspector1 I have been good friends with the guy for 10 years time to let so air out of his head and bring him back to the ground haha. I have never really cared who out does my motor just my friend haha. 1 time will me fun.

I'd build the motor at 11.5:1 static compression ratio and use this cam with a 4000 stall converter and a set of 4.62 gears in your 8" diff....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-364761/
I'm recommending a flat tappet solid ONLY because you said CHEAP.
You will not need centrifugal advance in the distributor, so remove the weights and tie-wrap the whole mess down tight to eliminate centrifugal advance. Install the tie wraps so that the locking nib is on the bottom, out of the way. Put all the advance in at the crank (you'll have to determine what the motor wants). Interrupt the hot line that goes to the coil and install a momentary push button switch that opens the circuit when pushed. Push the button, turn the ignition key to begin the motor spinning, then release the button. Otherwise, the starter motor will not be able to spin the crank against the compression created with this much initial ignition timing.

Cut the heads for Crane 96877-16 springs (1.460" O.D.) and install at 1.850" height with Crane 99969-16 retainers.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-96877-16/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99969-16/

Flip through here and choose your converter. The 302 is a small bellhousing block, so you will want to use a C4 that has been extensively rebuilt to take the power and rpm's that you will be feeding it through the race converter....
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...d=transmission

Use checking pushrods to get the right length. Rocker tip should be in the middle of the valve tip at half-lift.
http://www.compcams.com/Products/CC-...rods%27-4.aspx

Start searching right away for used parts. Some of this stuff is gonna be hard to find used.

techinspector1 Can i use these rocker arms http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-27750-16/ with http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-96877-16/ and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99969-16/
Also what about new valves would these work http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51900252/ with http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MIL-45685-8/and http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-11800-8/

and will this work http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6268-A302/ with http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-364761/ with http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99280-2/

Anything i need to change before i start ordering parts? total of $1400 add the $250 for the intake and I'm only $100 over my budget. Not bad