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Thread: 302 Clevor build?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Dano61's Avatar
    Dano61 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Nov 2009
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    Columbus
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1966 F-100 SB Styleside 2wd
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    27

    What about a cam how do i pick a cam? Oh also do I buy timing gears for a 302 or a 351C since I'm using the 351C cam? Should i update the lifter?

    techinspector1 I have been good friends with the guy for 10 years time to let so air out of his head and bring him back to the ground haha. I have never really cared who out does my motor just my friend haha. 1 time will me fun.
    This is where a "Miter Box" would come in handy!!!

  2. #2
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    I'd build the motor at 11.5:1 static compression ratio and use this cam with a 4000 stall converter and a set of 4.62 gears in your 8" diff....
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-364761/
    I'm recommending a flat tappet solid ONLY because you said CHEAP.
    You will not need centrifugal advance in the distributor, so remove the weights and tie-wrap the whole mess down tight to eliminate centrifugal advance. Install the tie wraps so that the locking nib is on the bottom, out of the way. Put all the advance in at the crank (you'll have to determine what the motor wants). Interrupt the hot line that goes to the coil and install a momentary push button switch that opens the circuit when pushed. Push the button, turn the ignition key to begin the motor spinning, then release the button. Otherwise, the starter motor will not be able to spin the crank against the compression created with this much initial ignition timing.

    Cut the heads for Crane 96877-16 springs (1.460" O.D.) and install at 1.850" height with Crane 99969-16 retainers.
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-96877-16/
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99969-16/

    Flip through here and choose your converter. The 302 is a small bellhousing block, so you will want to use a C4 that has been extensively rebuilt to take the power and rpm's that you will be feeding it through the race converter....
    http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
    http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...d=transmission

    Use checking pushrods to get the right length. Rocker tip should be in the middle of the valve tip at half-lift.
    http://www.compcams.com/Products/CC-...rods%27-4.aspx

    Start searching right away for used parts. Some of this stuff is gonna be hard to find used.
    Last edited by techinspector1; 08-23-2010 at 04:40 PM.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  3. #3
    Dano61's Avatar
    Dano61 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Last edited by Dano61; 08-31-2010 at 11:31 PM.
    This is where a "Miter Box" would come in handy!!!

  4. #4
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Valve spring part numbers are for 302 heads. Will post correct numbers for 351 head, but have to get some sleep right now.

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