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  • 1 Post By pat mccarthy
  • 1 Post By pat mccarthy
  • 1 Post By Dave Severson

Thread: 350 Chevy top end kits
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    swurzer is offline CHR Junior sMember Visit my Photo Gallery
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    350 Chevy top end kits

     



    Hi all,
    My son and I are restoring a 72 Chevelle with a 350 engine, and I'd like to ask for opinions on heads, cam, intake, and carb. My son started restoring this baby a couple of years ago, but ran outta money, so I'm jumping in with the cash.

    He rebuilt a 350 Chevy from a 1990 Suburban, but the engine is REALLY lumpy with poor idle and not the power he was hoping for... So we decided to rebuild the top end with a more streetable setup. He put a big cam in it, and we think it's to big for the rest of the eingine.

    We're looking to spend about $1000 on the top end, and leave the bottom end alone. So my question is, what to use for heads, intake, cam and carb? Would like to get as much HP as possible, but still be driveable on the street. Recommendations?

    Thanks in advance,
    Steve and Dustin

  2. #2
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    For fast and easy selections... search Edelbrock! They have some good packages for reasonable money.

  3. #3
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    for a $1000. you will not buy a top end kit with edelbrock heads .BUT in iron like the PBM heads that is made in the usa can happen with gasket . cam . lifters . if you want to know more PM me i a dealer for most all heads and cam companys
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  4. #4
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Steve and Dustin--Welcome to CHR, good having you here! Put us up some pics of the Chevelle sometime and ask away on the questions, lots of experience on here and someone will usually come up with a good answer! Over camming an engine is probably the most common mistake folks make when starting out on this Hot Rodding stuff, been there, done that!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  5. #5
    40fat is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hi Just did a 350 used a 214 degree @ 50 inch lift nice cam very streetable. Be sure that the timing chain is correct and the valves are good to go. Too big a cam will mess things up quickly. 40 fat

  6. #6
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    glennsexton is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Welcome to CHR guys!

    Love the father son projects!

    As Pat stated, the $1000 budget limits the top end build however; we can help you get close. These Vortec heads don’t look too bad for $680 and they have no core and free shipping – see New Chevy Performance 302 350 906 Vortec Cylinder Heads | eBay
    Specs:
    64cc Combustion chamber
    185cc Intake runners
    2.02 Stainless steel intake valves
    1.60 Stainless steel exhaust valves
    Straight plugs
    Assembled with hardened keepers and retainers
    Springs good to .600 lift
    Assembled with 3/8 screw-in studs and 5/16 guide plates
    Heads are assembled with new valve seals and are ready right out of the box.

    Summit cam and lifters - $89.00 - SUM-K1104, duration at 050 - intake/224 exhaust, about as big as you want to go without serious internal upgrades. If he’s running a four speed this will be a great cam. If an automatic you’ll want a 2,000-2,400 stall converter with 3:73 gears to get good results in the Chevelle (it is a heavy car). Summit SUM-K1102 brings the duration back to 204 intake/214 exhaust at 050 and that is very “streetable” with a stock automatic, stock converter and gears.

    Look on ebay or Craig’s list for a used Edelbrock Performer RPM – usually about $75-125. Make sure it’s for Vortec heads! 7116 for square carbs, like the Edelbrock 1406 and 7104 for spread bore like the QuadraJet. This will put you over the $1,000 – but you should be able to pick up a used 1406 for less than $200. I’d stay away from a used QuadraJet unless you know the source very well. I like the Q-Jet a lot, but they can be tricky to rebuild and initially setup. Once dialed in, the Q-Jet is an awesome carb. The 1406 Edelbrock is a 600cfm unit, electric choke and real solid. May be a bit rich out-of-the-box, but re-jet is simple and inexpensive.

    Heads $680
    Cam/lifters $89
    Used manifold +/-$100
    Carb +/- $150-300
    Gaskets and such - $100

    So, realistically, for $1,200-1,300 you can probably accomplish your mission.

    Good luck and let us know what you decide!

    Regards,
    Glenn
    "Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil

  7. #7
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    yep that price is about right .. the 906 casting are better i think i know were them casting are coming from but the RHS head or PBM is a better casting and finish more metal better deck = No cracks about same price that what i use . has for price i was thinking .heads cam and intake for about what you wanted to spend . that s pbm heads loaded . Erson /pbm cam/ lifters and cyclone intake if you go with any head with guid plates you must use a hard push rod or remove guid plates and use self trackiing rocker arms not much more gaskets and pushrods
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 11-14-2012 at 12:01 AM.
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  8. #8
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    You might also want to keep an eye on Racing Junk web site.... This is the time of year that most do their updating and upgrading on parts, lots of good deals showing up on their lately!!!!
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  9. #9
    swurzer is offline CHR Junior sMember Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hi guys,
    Thanks for all of the advice... This has been a good education, and we went out and really studied cam specs... Wow, that stuff is complicated. Here's what we've decided on so far:
    Chevy Vortec 2.02/1.60 Heads
    Comp XE262H Hydraulic Flat tappet cam

    Next is choosing the intake and Carb for this setup. Any advice here? This is the next part of my education.
    BTW, we have 10cc dished pistons and 0.030 over bore. So I think this puts us at about 9.8:1 compression ratio.
    According to a calculator I found, the Dynamic Comp ratio is 8.3:1 which I'm told is pretty streetable for a 4 speed trans.
    I learned that there is a Static compression ratio and a Dynamic Compression ratio... And they both matter... Who knew.
    So, my next questions are:
    1. Is a Dynamic Compression ratio of 8.3 pretty good, as far a a good comprimise between horsepower and streetability?
    2. What CFM do we shoot for on the carb?
    3. What intake manifold to use? how important is this?

    Thanks,
    Steve and Dustin

  10. #10
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    glennsexton is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Good call on the heads! I think you’ll have a compression ration closer to 9.2:1 given the following:
    Bore = 4.030
    Stroke = 3.48
    Head gasket bore diameter = 4.166 (Fel-Pro Q1003)
    Head gasket thickness = .041
    Combustion chamber = 64cc
    Piston volume = -10
    Deck clearance = .025 (based on “average” stock measurement of 9.025”)

    If you square the block and have the deck cut to 9.003, CR increases to 9.68:1 with the above - very “streetable” and a good place to be.

    I like the cam – be sure to follow the initial lube and break in as modern oils lack zinc.

    I still like an Edelbrock Performer RPM with a Quadrajet (750cfm – but note the vast difference in primary and secondary allow this to be a very efficient and yet great performing carb) with this combination however; an Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm, electric choke) would be fine too but plan on coming down one size from the supplied jets and metering rods as they tend to run rich out of the box. Again, remember that Vortec heads use different manifolds and the QJet is a spread bore while the Edelbrock is a square carb. Get a big air cleaner – Summit SUM-G3001is perfect for $22. 14” x 3”. Resist the temptation to go a small, sexy air cleaner. Remember your engine is an “air-pump” and needs to flow as open as possible.

    Stock HEI distributor is fine. Start with 8-10 degrees initial and 32 degrees total on timing.

    Headers are a must – I like Hookers, but any name brand should work well. I also like ceramic coating on the headers. It looks real good, helps with the heat and you’ll not have to worry about rust. Go with stainless steel header bolts – trust me on this. Have 2-1/2 inch pipe done at a muffler shop and install a cross over pipe with 40 series Flowmasters – you’ll love the sound. With the QJet, you’ll hear a real freight train and get a great kick when you hit the pedal at about 30MPH

    Have Fun,
    Glenn
    "Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil

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