Worked on wiring on this car the whole week I was off. Pulled the battery and tray, pulled the starter and all of the starter/charge wires. The only thing that would shut down the entire system is a very hot 12V lead from the battery terminal on the starter to the fuse box. There is a 10ga wire with a fusible link so I replaced that with an 8ga. wire/fusible link.
Some of the stuff I found while pulling the wiring out.
A). Melted convolute tubing around the battery leads from the starter to the dash harness. The wires were very tight to the back corner of the pass. side cyl hd... This looked like it was getting pretty warm that close to the exhaust port.
B). The charge wire from the alternator ran in front of the engine, under the alt brkt, and then up over the intake manifold. I had to pry the convolute tubing off the heat riser on the intake. It had melted in place...
C). I pulled the temp sensor wire and found an "insulating washer", a fiber washer... under the ring terminal to sensor joint... Why would you want to "insulate" this connection? Just asking...
D). There was no dedicated frame ground (common practice on the tri-fives).
E). The body ground was a butt spliced 12ga wire.

This is a list of the changes made during the week.
1). Added a 12v distribution block to the firewall.
2). The above 8ga. wire routed from the starter battery terminal to the new 12v tap.
3). Shortened the 10ga. feed wire to the fuse block and routed it to the new tap.
4). Re-wired the alternator from a 1-wire to a true 3-wire. Ran 8ga. wire to the new 12v tap and routed a new sensor wire to the same tap.
5). Routed the alternator wire down to the frame rail and back to the firewall rather then over the engine.
6). Rebuilt the ground leads. Drilled and tapped a 5/16-18 hole on the top of the frame rail and routed a 2ga grd lead from the water pump, a 1/0 cable from the battery and a 4ga lead from the body to this bolt on the rail.
7). Pulled the cluster and replaced a bad LED turn signal lamp.
7a). During the LED swap I get the turn signal indicators working but they are backwards... I find the signal wires are reversed in the dash connector. Swap those to the correct pins and the indicators work correctly now.
8). Unplug the NS and B/U lamp harness from the switch down at the trans. Install a pair of relays under the dash and wire in new switches on the shifter. I have some adjusting to do on the NS switch but the car now starts every time and we have B/U lamps!
That was my week, how was yours?
Mark