Thread: Exhaust leak on manifold

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I don’t mean to offend anybody, and maybe I missed something reading this but I wonder if you guys aren’t way over thinking this and missed the obvious.

“….I know the old gaskets didn't come off all the way because the were corroded and baked on to the point that even using a heavy file on the faces to get the most of the old gaskets off then a mill file to smooth it out….”

ALL the old gasket material MUST be removed from both the manifold and the head for the manifold to seal. From the looks of the picture of the manifold I would almost bet there is (was) material still left on the head. Cleaning the manifold can be a PIA and the head even worse, but if there is any old gasket left on either you can do this 100 times and it will still leak. You can pretty well tell where it was leaking by the carbon trails on the gaskets, and that’s where you need to spend some more time cleaning.


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Not meaning to hi-jack or change the subject but are those what some call "Ram's Head Manifolds"?
meller

Actually I've heard and call them "rams horn" manifolds. There were a few different designs; the early ones dumped straight down, some have molded in brackets, and they came in 2", 2 1/4" and 2 1/2" outlet versions.


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X2 on what Mike advised about the need for cleaning. If you don't get it clean there's no way it will seal. Use a GOOD scraper or even a wide old wood chisel that you don't want for woodworking any more, and resist the temptation to dig the surface with the corners in those baked on areas. You want a clean, flat surface for the new gasket to seal against.

I ?think? I meant to say Horns and not Heads - - - thanks, Mike

meller

Originally Posted by 34_40

That 1"+ long piece of metal where the pipe clamps up is called a heat riser, should have a valve inside, unless someone had already removed the plate.

You can ditch it and use shorter studs if you don't need that length. It was used to force the exhaust up and across the lower intake manifold to help warm it.

No valve in there it looks like it was corroded out. Its off a truck that hasn't been started since the 80's

Originally Posted by Lefcrak

No valve in there it looks like it was corroded out. Its off a truck that hasn't been started since the 80's

Like Mike said, the heat riser should just slide off of the extended studs, and then you'll need to remove the old studs (soak them for a few days in a good penetrating oil, then heat the manifold around the base of the stud and see if they'll come out) and replace them with the shorter version. No need to work with the added length.

No valve in the block looks like it was corroded out. To use shorter studs do you just knock them out from the holes in the top or are they threaded?

sorry changed my mind about the post

this i one of them things i do on a over all rebuild or head work is to mill the ex side of a used heads and ex manfolds . i done many boats as this side of the head can get very bad i seen them to the point were the heads were close to junk from rot .pontaics i mill every head i do if the start looking ruff seems many guys have a very hard time with them sealing as the out side port mainfolds used one bolt .used a shell cutter on the J head mill and use the storm vulcan with the head bench on the machine .like said there nothing like a nice flat surface were no gasket is needed . i use stick it long broad paper used in the body shop i stick it the paper on a dead flat table top i call it lapping done many smaller parts were it would take to much time to set up to cut or grind on one of the machines . a belt /disc mounted sander works but it not easy to hang on to and feed leve the part in to the belt if 1/3 the size of belt it works good. HEY Jerry you going to PRI .me and my crew will be there.. maybe i see you?

whats the date this year?????


seems there are all kinds of ways to mess up things if you don't have proper equipment--------shops without balancers--that don't need balancing-shops without honing machines--it just needs a couple passes with a bottle brush ------without decking machines-------its only 4 thousands out with a feeler guage and my ruler--------etc, etc-----

Jerry take it easy many on the net do not need guys like us that do the job with the right tools . Now i going back to chat with the charming russina women

you can probably get discounts on a few from Ukraine????????????

remember the link the other day to a U tube for using a ruler and feeler guage??????????

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

you can probably get discounts on a few from Ukraine????????????

missing vin tag miles rolled back with the door lock punch out with a screw driver . ahh no thanks