Thread: sb ford firing order

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I recommend a compression test first before going any further.

If it were mine, I'd bring it around to #1 compression, bring the piston up to TDC and check the marks on the damper against the pointer. If they're not close then something's wrong. Could be the damper's de-laminated and the outer ring's slipped. Could be the timing chain jumped. Could be you missed the distributor position by a tooth or two when you put the new one in place. Doing a compression check is a good step, but I'd start with the basics first and get your timing marks right even before I tried that. Just my $0.02 and how I'd attack it. If your dampers de-laminated, or if your timing jumped a tooth or two you don't want to simply re-mark the damper and try to use it. Again, just my humble opinion.

TDC is the position of the piston, nothing can change that short of a broken crank. The cams timing will change valve opening /closing and can effect compression, but will not change TDC. Distributor placement will change spark timing in relationship to compression, but again will not change TDC.
If TDC is on #1 at the compression stroke (both valves closed) and the timing marks at the balancer do not align, either the balancer has slipped or the wrong balancer pointer combination are in place. Also a broken key on the crank can cause this.
However, a compression test will tell us the health of the combustion chambers in this engine and let us know if we are chasing our tails. Thus my recommendation. IMHO, a compression test should be the first thing done to an unknown motor...

Originally Posted by 36 sedan

TDC is the position of the piston, nothing can change that short of a broken crank. The cams timing will change valve opening /closing and can effect compression, but will not change TDC. Distributor placement will change spark timing in relationship to compression, but again will not change TDC.
If TDC is on #1 at the compression stroke (both valves closed) and the timing marks at the balancer do not align, either the balancer has slipped or the wrong balancer pointer combination are in place. Also a broken key on the crank can cause this.
However, a compression test will tell us the health of the combustion chambers in this engine and let us know if we are chasing our tails. Thus my recommendation. IMHO, a compression test should be the first thing done to an unknown motor...

36 sedan, you're 100% right and I went too far with the distributor position & timing chain statement. Thanks for correcting my mistake.

Since the plugs are out-I'd do the oil squirt recommended by Denny, do a compression test or cylinder leakage test on all cylinders, then do a positive stop method of checking the EXACT tdc and marks on the dampner. Once and if- verified-I'd put the distributor in with rotor of course at the number one 10*btdc and locate it with the reluctor wheel spline lined up exactly centered with the sensor. ( IIRC there is aprox 14* in the width of the sensor and it triggers in the middle as the magnetic field reverses and is fairly easy to center it-might take a little neck/head leaning/bending- and put the correct wire in the correct hole on the cap----------

I would do the compression test first without the oil. Then if compression is low add the oil to determine wether rings or valves causing low compression, oil will temporarily seal rings and raise the compression if rings are worn.
JMHO

Plugs out over a year I would add oil for lubing the walls and rings-----only 89 k miles rings will still be good-----However------since the plugs are out-I would do a cylinder leakage test-checks valves, gaskets for leakage-altho I don't think its necessary for this engine----
The main point of my post was to do a POSITIVE stop method of checking accuracy of the dampner marks and correcting it if necessary-then how to accurately install the dist so the timing is correctly set to +/- ONE DEGREE of where I'd want it-------and to properly/accurately route and install the plug wires to the cap and plugs-------put in a new set of properly gapped plugs, spray a bit of starting fluid into intake and lite 'er off-----------------------
extra dashes from kinky finger

Good point, I had lost track of the motor setting for a year.

well i got everythingl ined up but the damper stills points towards to floor pulled it apart timing ups line up, @1 piston is up, alves are closed key is ok in the crankshaft so the damper did slide but its its weighed ill gave to replace it not sure if it would run likre that and wouldnt want to use it anyway

Ford has a 28 and a 50 oz dampner weight spec-make sure you get the correct one-also-did you get the original flywheel with the engine?? they are counter weighted also---------and if the ring has slipped, it could be as a result of the wrong balance weight parts causing a severe vibration and trying to damp out the shake caused the ring to slide.

Getting the damper rebuilt is also an option. Some prefer it.

ok so im checking ebay for prices i see the same one as mine but this one has degree numbers on the thin side of the balancer which is where the key slot is located. but the scribed line is on the weighted thicker side of the balancer.. the guy who posted the pic of his with the pointer and the line spin that around and see if there are numbers also . wtf is ford thinking.. i dont think the timing mark would or could slide 1/2 way around the balancer w/o coming completely apart.

ok ill check my balancer to see if mine has these degree numbers .so then what is the scribed line used for???? when i line that up to the pointer everything is off .....
man i should have used a sbc engine

In Rogers post 19 pic the notch(which you are referring to as a scribed line) can be seen and actually its for triggering a electronic sensor for a shop testor that got installed into that little round hole on the bracket.

Originally Posted by wayneo777

.... the guy who posted the pic of his with the pointer and the line spin that around and see if there are numbers also .

Wayne,
I'm sorry if my earlier picture confused you. I was simply giving you a visual of the pointer bolted to the block, in relation to the dampner. I didn't even notice the alignment of the pointer to the heavy groove on the thick part of the balancer, which has nothing to do with the timing reference but is an electronic trigger reference as Jerry noted. This picture is not the best, as it's pitch black out by the barn out here in the country, and trying to get a decent flash picture in total darkness is a trip, but if you look closely you'll see the timing numbers stamped into the thin part of the harmonic balancer, just like the picture that DennyW posted.

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