Thread: sb ford firing order
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09-12-2015 10:05 PM #1
sb ford firing order
ok on my build when I bought the engine last summer I heard it run for like 25 minutes sounded good didn't smoke knock etc etc got it back to the shop and started to clean it up it only had 89k on the odm. so im running a cross ram the stock dizzy wouldn't fit so I popped the cap off and marked where the rotor was pointing with yellow tape and pulled the wires off and the plugs out ,there taped all the holes closed ..jump to july of this yr I got the new dizzy out of ebay from white performance. put it in the motor with the rotor pointing where I had it taped and left it.... so I didn't mess with it till yesterday after I got the motor and trans set into the frame me in my genius wisdom didn't take any pictures of the plug wires, so I goggled sb ford firing order mmmm #1 cylinder fires on the right side unlike a sbc motor. but the timing mark in facing the bottom of engine so I use a coat hanger wire to see when the piston comes up, (all the plugs are out so its fairly easy to turn) when the timing mark is on tdc the #1 piston is down and #5 piston is up I hand cranked it 4, 5 maybe 6 rotations same thing. how the hell was it running did they just switch the wires around???? I guess I have to take the timing cover off to see whats going on but will doing this damage the pan gasket?i put on a new pan and gasket cant remember if I used sealer or not dam it tares the gasket this will turn into a dam nightmare... or can I wire it so its running in this firing order :
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09-13-2015 02:14 AM #2
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09-13-2015 02:31 AM #3
302 High Performance, and 351 used a different firing order from the low performance 289 - 302 - different cam grinds. Maybe you have a HP, or a HP/351W cam got put in there.
Ford 5.0L / 302 HO and 351W Firing Order | GTSparkplugs
.Rrumbler, Aka: Hey you, "Old School", Hairy, and other unsavory monickers.
Twistin' and bangin' on stuff for about sixty or so years; beat up and busted, but not entirely dead - yet.
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09-13-2015 02:35 AM #4
well the motor came out of a f150 truck and the number 1 cylinder is still first on right side. At TDC the number 5 cylinder is up... thats the cylinder across from the #1 on the left sideLast edited by wayneo777; 09-13-2015 at 02:40 AM.
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09-13-2015 07:10 AM #5
You can not be on TDC #1 if number 1 piston is down. Check you balancer for slippage and or the pointer in wrong location.
Find compression on #1, then find TDC on #1 (while still on compression stroke), that is TDC compression stroke no mater what the balancer marks say. If your balancer is not damaged (rings slipped), you could relocate your pointer to align correctly with the balancer, or remark your balancer to the pointer. Run your firing order from this corrected location, time the motor and go. Of course, this assumes everything else is correct in the motor.
DennyW beat me to the punch...Last edited by 36 sedan; 09-13-2015 at 07:14 AM.
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09-13-2015 07:47 AM #6
DennyW & 36 sedan are giving you the right advice. It's not likely that your dampner was changed, but mine on the street rod (scratch build, new dampner) has three different sets of marks stamped into the ring, with the "right" one marked in red paint. Set the engine to #1TDC compression and see where you are. You might be looking at the wrong reference point on the front cover, too.Last edited by rspears; 09-13-2015 at 11:02 AM.
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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09-13-2015 08:16 AM #7
the engine and trans are setting in the frame plugs out, and valve covers off the starter is in place but have no wires hooked up yet.ill check the damper for different marks or slipage. but yeah the timing line on the damper is at the bottom when the#1up ... as stated i put a small coat hanger wire to tell when the piston was up and both valves closed
the timing marker bolts to the right side of the engine, where i took it off from. i didnt know the damper could slide but ill check that too.worse comes to worse ill have to repalce the chain and gears i was planing on just leaving the motor bone stock but hell if i gotta change the gears might as well put a cam and new lifters in
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09-13-2015 08:29 AM #8
Before you start disassembling things, do a compression test. If the compression is good, more than likely it is just the timing alignment at the balancer.
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09-13-2015 08:46 AM #9
My new Ford 429 longblock, never lined up on the harmonic balancer. The old balance marks were way of from the new longblock assemble. I then bought an after market balancer with the same problem. Follow Denny's advice, it worked for me!" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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09-13-2015 08:56 AM #10
thanks for all the replies ill do some more checking on it, I just might be over looking something. hey i didnt throw any wrenchs yet,, so thats a good thing right?
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09-13-2015 08:58 AM #11
I once had a dickens of a time starting a motor, when I had the cap wired clockwise, instead of ccw. It's also useful to look at a picture of the cylinder numbers. Usually the most forward cylinder is #1, and that bank is all odd #s, but I wouldn't assume they all do it like that..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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09-13-2015 08:59 AM #12
That is a good thing, I usually just choose choice adjectives and usually get a band aid for the bloody knuckle coated in engine grime!" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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09-13-2015 09:20 AM #13
Good to see a post with some related data Denny------------Your library of that stuff rivals the Library of Congress
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09-13-2015 10:59 AM #14
Not sure if it will help you or not, but this is a picture of the timing pointer on a bone stock 1990 F150 302, passenger front, just below #1 cylinder.
DSC01253.JPGRoger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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09-13-2015 10:15 PM #15
yes that's the same pointer, and the same spot on my 302.
so if the#1 piston is up and both valve closed and I put the dist in with the rotor so it is pointing on the #1 post. the damper should be as shown in pic,, simple basic stuff .but if not . I can mark the damper with yellow or white paint where it is and use this as a new timing mark,and rotate this a few times to make sure this where it is at all time then the damper has moved and needs to be replaced, if it moved that much id hate to have come apart at any rpm I should be able to start this like this ..????
Thanks!! I usually do the "NZ Slang" lookup but decided to poke the bear this time! ;):D:p
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