Thread: dunno which motor to put in my malibu...

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Thank you for the help again Fordman, I will do that. My front end is a 79 Z28 and I am going to get a super front end kit from P-S-T.

FMX,

You shouldn't even need a torch. If you centerpunch the rivets, then use a drill several sizes larger than the rivet, you can drill down just until the head falls off, then knock it out with a punch. Just make sure you dont drill too far.

I assume you know about pickle forks . . .

Yeah I know about pickle forks. I won't need one right now I don't think. But yeah I am just going to take the head off the rivet and then just hit it out or use my new 12 ton press I am getting and just put something on top and press it out if I can. No big deal, I'll find a way to do it. I had to put some upper and lower control arms and all on an explorer today and was a pretty big pain in the butt so I guess that just got me read for mine which will be worse I am sure.

FMX, henry is right, I guess. Back remember I said "in the old days" we didn't have drill bits that sharp or that strong. The bits most of us could get our hands on would be totallly dull after the first rivet. I still think that air tools are the way to go. But use what you got. It still is the same answer. Cut the rivets and bolt in the new ball joints.

Originally posted by Henry Rifle
Malibu,

An assembled short block is going to run you $1,800 - $2,000. A stroker kit would run $600 - $900, then you've got some machine shop costs to add on top of that. If I were going to a stroker, I would buy a reputable stroker kit, have the block machined to fit, and do the assembly myself. However, if you chose to go that way, you need to make sure the block can be bored out to .060 BEFORE you buy the kit - otherwise, you're going to be looking for another block.

However, think about this. An upgraded cam and some good heads would make a massive improvement in your 355 for a lot less money. Something like a Performer RPM intake, cam and head combo. If you've got a good intake manifold, the cam and head combo would work. Edelbrock 7102 cam & kit ($188) and 60719 heads ($489 Each). Good from 1500 - 6500 RPM.

If you want to add more rump-rump (2500 - 6500 RPM) and less street driveability, the Torker II package - same heads, different cam (#5002 - $178) and Torker II single plane manifold (#5001 - $96).

There are choices . . . and there are choices.

Well see the issue is that either way i go i have to get this engine rebuilt my bearings are spun , i have never assembled a motor before , my block is know is a high nickel 101 block (no sure about the 101 number), I like the suggestion about the cam and heads im gonna keep that in mind,

So Now, what do you think if i have to rebuild the motor, you think i should stay around the 355, or just go ahead and stroke it to a 383-388.. and can i used my 350 heads???

It just snowed here in kc, and i was just about to pull the motor out, i think imma tear it down myself...

If the crank can be saved, I'd stay with the 355. It saves parts $$$.

I don't know what heads you have, but if they aren't Chevy high performance heads, changing the cam and intake won't do you much good. An engine is just a big air pump. Air goes in . . . air goes out. The components need to match, or the pump chokes. The Edelbrock heads are to match their cam and intake. The Chevy heads may not be.

What heads are they? Casting number?

And, hey . . . you gotta build your first engine sometime. Get a good book on rebuilding small block Chevys. If you don't want to chance it, get the cam and kit, get the short block built, then install the rest yourself.

thing is, if i get my shortblock rebuilt how is it gonna save me money vs getting a stroker kit?... they charged around 1,000 to rebuild my cousins 400 block (included their own kit. stock)...and if i have to bored .60 what do i need to stop my block from running hot?

putting a motor together doesnt seem too hard but id rather wait to get another block to play with first...

With a stroker kit, you buy rods and a crank - which you don't have to buy if you rebuild your motor (assuming your rods and crank are OK.)

If you rebuild your motor, all you need is rings, bearings, pistons, pins, rings and gaskets.

Both of them take a similar amount of machine work.

If it cost a grand to rebuild stock, it's going to cost more than that with a stroker. There are more parts.

I really can't tell you much more than that. Tear the engine down, go to a reputable machine shop, and ask them what the two different options would cost.

As to overheating . . . if there's enough meat in the cylinders, and you have a good radiator, you should be OK.

OK, now i understand what you are talking about, now with the rebuild is it smart for me to take them a kit or go ahead and have them use their kit.. i have another crank even if mine is shot... and since i have a 355 right now..what do i get if its bored .60 ova.. right now i have a regular radiator, and a electric fan..

so imma go ahead and pull my motor soon, are there any parts/bolts that i need to save...when i take it apart that i should be careful not to loose?

Save every bolt... Put them in ziplock baggies and mark the name on it. Don't throw any bolts away or nothing because you may need to make sure the new ones are the same as the old or anything else.