Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: carb set up
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    chevy 37's Avatar
    chevy 37 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Auburn
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1937 chevy truck& 33 fordtruck
    Posts
    3,017

    carb set up

     



    As most of you know, I'm running a tri carb set up on my 315(bored 305 engine) and need some info. I'm running progressive linkeage and it works great but here's the problem. If I floor it all 3 carbs kick in which floods the engine and makes it hesitate. When crusing about 40 and I floor it there's no hesitation because the RPM'S are up. What I would like to do is keep one carburetor with no idle circuit and replace one set up like the middle one with idle circuit and make a linkeage that would open the two carbs at idle and one at half throttle. I feel this way I would be running a true 500 cfm( the 2 barrels are 250cfm each) and when I punch it I shouldn't have the lag I did before. Does this make sense ?
    Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!

  2. #2
    chevy 37's Avatar
    chevy 37 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Auburn
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1937 chevy truck& 33 fordtruck
    Posts
    3,017

    Denny You might be on to something there. I had a HEI and changed to a MSD because the last carb would't fit on the old HEI. The old dist. would always loosen up after a few runs and I would constantly retighten it. The new MSD does the same. I can crank the hold down so the distributor doesn't turn, but after a few runs my engine start pinging and I can turn the distributor by just pushing it with my finger. I don't know how to keep it locked down.
    Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!

  3. #3
    thesals's Avatar
    thesals is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    san diego
    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 mustangFB, 69 econline Drag Van
    Posts
    1,527

    sounds like something isn't running smoothly #1.. and secondly, try and put some thread locker on that hold down bolt after you've tried a thicker gasket

  4. #4
    Mike P's Avatar
    Mike P is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SW Arizona
    Car Year, Make, Model: 68 Ply Valiant, 83 El Camino
    Posts
    3,834

    Don't know what carbs your set up for 3 bolt or Rochester, but it sounds like 2 things are happening, your over-carbed at wide open throttle (WOT) and your end carbs are coming in to fast. If it was me, the first thing I would do is slow down the opening and limit the amount of opening of the secondary carbs. For what it's worth, this is the way I set up a Tri-Power.

    This is a picture of my SBC tri-power linkage. I have run this set up on a 307, mild 327 and a 383 stoker (It's currently residing on a 350 LT1). Once I've got it to the point it will idle and run, I set the adjuster on the end of the top piece of linkage to start opening the end carbs at a certain speed so I can comfortably cruse on the center carb only. I usually use 80 MPH on a flat stretch of road as the tip in point (the interstate speed where I am is 75 MPH).

    On the 307 and 327 I used the upper hole in the front carb linkage because it caused the end carbs to open slower and in that case the end carbs would not completely go to WOT. The total CFM at WOT with all 3 carbs is around 900+ CFM which was entirely to much for a small CID (which I think is the problem your having). It could be slowed/limited even more if I had moved the linkage higher on the front carb or lower on the center carb.

    ON the 383, I used the lower hole which opened the end carbs faster and wider (but still short of WOT). I think you'll find that for your 305 the end carbs will not need to be open very far (with the center at WOT) for it to be effective anything else is just over-kill.
    Attached Images

  5. #5
    chevy 37's Avatar
    chevy 37 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Auburn
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1937 chevy truck& 33 fordtruck
    Posts
    3,017

    Mike and all others who have responded I thank you for your input. First of all I need to take care of mu distributor problem and then Mike I will follow your input which makes sense. Since I made my own progressive linkeage I'll have to do some more adjusting.
    Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!

  6. #6
    chevy 37's Avatar
    chevy 37 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Auburn
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1937 chevy truck& 33 fordtruck
    Posts
    3,017

    Thanks Richard. I'll give that a shot. Did you get my E-Mail I sent you yesterday? Bart
    Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink