Thread: engine wont turn off

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What would cause my engine to continue running for about 10 seconds give or take after i turn the key off? Could this some how be related to timing?

Dieseling. In your case severe. Caused by too high of timing mixed with rich mixture. Grab the gun my friend.

I pulled the gun out today to try it and couldnt get it to work. Dunno if I was doing it wrong or if the gun just isnt any good. Whats the results of driving it like this ?

Depends on how far your timing is off. Chances are that youll just get bad mileage and have the diesiling, but theres always a possibility of burned valves. My advice, grab a glass of water, fill it and place it on your intake. when it stops shaking or shakes the least, thats when your timing is closest. that'll give you time to get another gun. Also, remember, #1 spark plug, not #1 in the firing order.

This is for the K20 with the 327 in it. It has a manual choke which I just hooked up. How is the choke supposed to be set? Im actually not to famaliar with that. Its supposed to be cracked about a pencil width open for starts and after it warms up open it all the way? No, I still havnt timed this. Also I swapped the heads off and adjusted the rockers my self(first time) with the engine not running. Maybe I did a bad job adjusting?

Originally posted by drg84
Also, remember, #1 spark plug, not #1 in the firing order.

What do you mean by this? The number one wire is the one that I hook the gun up to rite? Also when I time it does it work best running or turning it by hand(when using a light.)

Engine must be running to use timing light/gun,,,,also disconnect your vaccume advance hose from the distributor while setting the timing,,,then when you are done,,reconnect it.

Originally posted by nystreetscene
What do you mean by this? The number one wire is the one that I hook the gun up to rite? Also when I time it does it work best running or turning it by hand(when using a light.)

If your engine is running on for 10 seconds and is smooth running not deiseling you may have a different problem if you added an electric fan. Did you recently add an electric fan?, if not and the engine is dieseling then ignore this post.
If you did add an electric fan it can produce enough power when you turn off the engine while the fan is slowing down to keep the motor going if you direct wired it to your 12 volt system. This problem can be aleviated by installing a diode inline on the hot side or even better by installing a relay on the fan.

Thats interesting but no, I have still have the stock mechanical fan. It does seem to run smooth though, well that is until I try to drive it then it gos real slow and/or bogs and dies. After I plaid with the distributer a bit more it dosnt continue to run after turning it off but I still have the same problem of bogging or dieing when trying to drive it.

There is a possibillity that your coil is shot.

Im sorry, ive been kind of winging it and skipping things here and there not only in my description but also on the truck physically. Ive been working on this for over a month in the little spare time I have had. The last couple of days ive been to sick to spend a full day at work but now I should be back in action tomorrow. Before I go back into this thing tomorrow I would like to point out that I had the heads off and when I put the other ones back on I did the rocker arm adjusting myself. If I over tightened the rocker arm nuts could that be causing my problem? Valves not opening all the way or something to that effect. Now back to ansewering some of your questions(the ones I can) the truck idles like a dream and seems to go very well in reverse(im assuming cause its a low gear and low speed) but dosnt do the greatest driving down the road. Seems to have very little power and top speed didnt seem like it would have been to much over 30 or 40 mph.

Thats sad. 30-40mph? my fathers jeep which is waay out of tune will hit 70 on the highway, and its a 2.5! Anyway, as for your problem, it seems that mis-typed. dieseling is caused by to far back, not advanced. my mistake Take your timing up to stock specs, and bring it up another 2-4 degrees. then have someone step on the gas when its running and run your hand under the exhaust. smell for glycol and unburned gas. As for your head question, it is possible that you mis-adjusted your valves. If memory serves me right, you are supposed to leave a gap of .002-.004 inches between the rocker arm and valve. But dont quote me on that. all my vehicles have hydraulic lifters. As for over-tightening, that would cause them to open too soon, not too late.

are you using a stock cam? check your coil to see if its functioning right, that can cause some crap performance, check your points to make sure they're good, check for corrosion on the plugs... make sure all these are right, next what kind of condition is your carb in? if all these pan out, then i'd say go back to the rockers

Yes,,,over torquing the rockers can kill the performance,,along with bending pushrods

Hello, I have the same problem with my engine. I was wondering if anybody knows the timing specs for a ford 390? At least I think it's a 390. The person who sold me the car said it came from a 62' T-bird, but they said it was a 460, the 62' tbirds only came with the 390. I was only able to find a few serial numbers; the water pump says 30747, the manifold reads 85E 9425B, the cylinder heads say C8VE-E, and thats all of the serial numbers I have.
Any infor will be appresiated, thank you,
Kevin