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Thread: I am stumped??
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    lt1s10's Avatar
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    Originally posted by s10streeter
    I am experincing detonation now at mild acceleration on the road test. I tryed it with the full time vacuum and the ported side, both gave detonation. This is with the initial set at 8deg. BTDC. IF I retard anymore than that, it stalls out when drive engaged. I dont understand why the vacuum caused a reduced idle and stalled at times when connecting it? I will put the wires back in their orginal spots and start over because the running condition has been worse since moving them. Try something else? Would anyone recommend repositioning the dist.? Which direction, to the right or to the left?

    you dont need to move the wires if you timing light show 8 degree then it dont make no dif where you got #1 at in the cap 8 degrees is 8 degrees. you move the wires back and set the time at 8 BTDC then its the same thing. 8 degrees should not be to hi
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  2. #17
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    if you got the light hooked to#1 and it shows 8 degrees thats all you can do. looking at the light and hook up the vac what do the timing do then put the light on it and see what it says.
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  3. #18
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    With initial at 8deg. When the vac is applied it advances off of the tabs( above 16deg.) about 1\2 inch to the left side of the balencer. About 11:00, with 8deg being about 12:00. I can hear a click in the diaphram when vac is applied.
    Last edited by s10streeter; 07-09-2005 at 02:11 PM.

  4. #19
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    you should be able to drive it with out the vac adv. if you got spark knock at 8 degrees then you got to much comp or something else is wrong do it spark knock at 8 degrees?
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  5. #20
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    You think valve adjustment would help?

  6. #21
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    After a couple of test runs, I had to retard the timing to stop the detonation. First retard about 3deg. then had detonation at WOT then retard some more until gone. Parked and check timing. Shows 8deg BTDC with vacuum, off of the tabs at ATDC abiut 2:00 with advance disconnected. I'm beginning to think the marks arnt right or something. Any way, I dont have detonation now and need to drive it to work I just been confused during this whole deal. Dont know which way is right or which way is wrong.

  7. #22
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    you need to find out where the TDC is and mark the tab so you know where your timing is.
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  8. #23
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    Made it to work. No detonation during the trip. Has good power. Still wants to get warm though (190+) without elec fan running. Stays on 190 with fan. 180 thermo. Once I find TDC, do I need to mark the tab where the marker is as being 0deg?

  9. #24
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    [QUOTE]Originally posted by s10streeter
    Made it to work. No detonation during the trip. Has good power. Still wants to get warm though (190+) without elec fan running. Stays on 190 with fan. 180 thermo. Once I find TDC, do I need to mark the tab where the marker is as being 0deg? [/QUOTE

    where is the # at on the HB or the tab?
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  10. #25
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    Numbers are on the tab:

    BTDC 16-12-8-4-0-4 ATDC
    ^^^^^^^^^

  11. #26
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    Originally posted by s10streeter
    Numbers are on the tab: 16-12-8-4-0-4
    BTDC^^^^^^^^ATDC.
    when you find TDC mark the HB at the 0 on the tab.
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  12. #27
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    oh,ok, so that would be the new timing mark? Any special scribe or paint?

  13. #28
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    Originally posted by s10streeter
    oh,ok, so that would be the new timing mark? Any special scribe or paint?

    scratch a grove in it some how so it want come off and then mark that with paint so you can see it with the timing light. anything that will scratch the HB. do you know how to find the true TDC?
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  14. #29
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    Yeah Denny that looks like the one on the truck except for the red "thingy"? what is it? Lt1, is it still best to find TDC by checking for compression on #1 and watching for the intake rocker to close? there is also TTDC, not sure how close I can get if the marker is screwed.

  15. #30
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    Forgot to ask: are the tabs supposed to be at 12:00 center on top of the HB? Does it matter?

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