Thread: popping through carb

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Originally Posted by richmondb

...and then crank over the engine with the battery disconnected to get a reading right?

umm, I don't know how you would crank over the engine fast enough without the battery connected. All the power to you but your wretchet arm better be real quick, maybe you have experince in this department..

Originally Posted by richmondb

.. and then crank over the engine with the battery disconnected to get a reading right?

Ohhh, sorry, you meant the battery disconnected to the ignition!! Yes, remove the coil wire but if you can, have the throttle open when you crank it. When the test is done, make sure you close the throttle if you have it propped open.

How close have you looked at the rocker arms? I bet dollars to donuts, that you have a broken rocker or a bent pushrod.............or, a collapsed lifter.

I think Poncho62 is right it sure does sound like your not getting an exhaust valve open somewhere, which is why it's popping out the carb.

Originally Posted by poncho62

I bet dollars to donuts.

OK, 100 donuts. Oh, and if I lose, the donuts might get a little stale before they arrive via snail mail especially over the holiday season .

What is a collapsed lifter? I will do the compression check tomorrow and let you know the results. I think I would rather it be a bad coil than have to mess with replacing a spring or a lifter.

Yeah, no loud clicking or smoke out the exhaust. Oil pressure is fine. That's why I am leaning towards the coil going bad.

I had this problem on a 6 cyl engine once we did every thing and checked everything. Finely we took off ALL vac. lines and caped them problem went away. Found the PCV was stuck open.

I hope this problem turns out to be something that cheap. I checked the PCV, it rattles when I shake it.

Originally Posted by richmondb

...it rattles when I shake it.

This is good. If ever you shake it and it does not rattle, you know you got a problem.
I've heard of guys who shake their valve and it does not rattle, do you have any idea what they have to go through?

Count your blessings! It is not as cheap as you may think.

Some poeple have gone through deep pockets to rectify this situation. A faulty valve can cause, leaks, misfire, and even situations where you do not have enough braking power. In other words, you can not stop.

Why?? Because of loss of suction.

lol, heres a vid of our Coupes zz4 "popping the top"

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/2...9a00ffe963.htm

hahahaha

Note: This is a old video, from mid September. There have been no backfires since the carb got tuned and the timing set.

You never said what the dist is-if its points, a condenser will do that and if not, a bad module can do it also. You might want to check and make sure your advance is working too. I realy think your dist is at fault and a switch out of the dist might tell you something. And that part is easy!

Well, I did a compression check and sure enough I have a cylinder with 0 psi I pulled both rocker arms and they looked fine. Both push rods looked fine also. The springs don't seem to be broken, but the inner ones are hard to see so one of them might be. Now what do I do? Should I just pull the head to see if the piston has a hole in it or what?

Spin the motor by hand first and see if your pushrods go up and down. Could be your cam has dropped a lobe or a collapseed lifter. If not then pull the head. Then you might find a blown head gasket, hole in piston or most very likely a burnt intake valve or seat. Then take an asperin and see the engine rebuiloder to reseat or replace your valve(s) in the morning.

I checked the rest of the cylinders. I actually have two bad ones. Both middle ones on the passenger side of the engine. Could that be a blown head gasket? That would probably be the best case senario. Worst case senario, I have a hole in the engine block between the cylinders.