Thread: car keeps dying...drives me nuts!

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Hello, I'm new to this forum and a new hot rod owner as well.

Here's my proglem: I have a 57 chevy that seems to just all of a sudden die while driving it and then smells like gas. It has happened at both low and higher rpms. It has only done it after I shut it off and then turn it on to drive it again (so the first time I start it and drive it, it seems to go forever). But after shutting it off, it will not restart for 10 minutes or so and will then only go for 20 yards and then out again. For a little more info, when it does run, it can have some hesitation when hitting the gas at times...but boy does the car go!

Here's some info on my car (not sure what to give, but I guess more is better?):

57 chevy with a 350 by Brown Engineering
700R Overdrive w/2500 stall
Manley ultra lite flat top piston w/float pins
Eagle rods w/ARP bolts
Isky hydraulic roller cam
492 camel hump heads, 1.60/2.02 stainless steel valves, screw in studs & roller rockers
Victor Jr intake w/ Holley 750 double pumper, no choke
headers and dual exhaust
9" Ford posi w/390 gear & driveshaft by Jackson Powertrain

I'll be honest, I'm not sure what all of these items mean, but I wanted to list them for you guys.

Any thoughts on what I need to do or what is wrong? Losing power steering and brakes when it dies can ruin a guys day for sure

Vapour lock. The gas line and pump are getting too warm, probably due to the headers being too close. As long as it's running, the gas flowing keeps it cool, but when you stop, the gas boils and the pump won't work so you run out of gas. The solution is to reroute the line away from the heat, and maybe make a sheet metal shield between the header and the pump and line.

wow, that's interesting, thank you....do you think putting an insulator or wrap of some sort on the fuel line would do the trick?

I just peeked under the hood and it looks like the fuel pump is right next to those headers...the line goes away from them, but the pump is right there

Header wrap insulation works, wrap the tubes that are close to the pump.

Electric fuel pump will work also.Check your fuel filter too!

ignition module?

After insulating the fuel lines. I'd make sure that the tank is clean especially if the tank is original. IMHO the 750 is a little large.

What you have to find out is whether the problem is fuel or electrical. When it goes into the no go mode,check and see if you're getting fuel,and then check your spark. The biggest single mistake is grounds not hooked back up,so double check that the block,the body,and the battery all have good clean,and tight connections. Hank

I'm going to the auto parts store today to check for insulated wraps etc. for the headers and the braided fuel line. Does the fuel pump need to be wrapped too? (because it's so close to the headers)

[QUOTE=halftanked]What you have to find out is whether the problem is fuel or electrical. When it goes into the no go mode,check and see if you're getting fuel,and then check your spark.

You don't know what to fix if you don't first know whats WRONG
halftanked put you in the right direction JMO. Let us know what you find out

[QUOTE=Joe57Chevy]Hello, I'm new to this forum and a new hot rod owner as well.

Here's my proglem: I have a 57 chevy that seems to just all of a sudden die while driving it and then smells like gas.

If you smell gas how could it be vapor lock.Vapor lock is the lack of gas

very true... I'll investigate more first and keep you guys posted

When the carb runs dry, the float drops, and allows the vapour to escape. It's the vapour that you smell. A little bit of gasoline makes a lot of vapour when its heated.

Okay, now I'm confused (well, more than usual). Another guy told me to absolutely not wrap the headers, as that will put more heat through the engine and make my problem worse. He says that my problem, due to a radical cam, is boiling of the gas directly inside of the carburetor.

for the earlier question: my Dad says that I'm getting both gas and spark