Thread: I really am idling with 40 degrees advance

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Is that a 350 or a 305? They take different timing tabs and yours sounds like it may be a 305

The timing mark on the lower gear is a small circle obscured by the paint pen. I put in a better pic, you might be able to see it. Black mark is the keyslot I marked.

I have only an HEI with integrated (high voltage) coil. No MSD or dial back light. Using a standard timing light with the marks on the balancer up to 50(double checked against an 8" timing tape).

You may be right about the centrifugal, but would be surprised if it was that much difference down that low. I will try to get it to idle even lower.

On a separate note, I noticed my fuel pressure was very low (recent change showing 1-2PSI). I just thought I would mention it in case that had any impact on this. It might even be a bad gauge.

350 engine. Not 305 (pretty sure).

Thanks Pnut - I see the mark now.

Are you running a mechanical fuel pressure gauge with isolater for the gauge?
The isolaters I've been involved with usually make the gauge show 1# low in the 4# - 6# region.
And if they're full of air or entrained with air bubbles on the gauge side they'll show 1/2# - 1#.

If you're running a Holley red (street) electric pump sometimes the built in regulator hangs up due to roughness in the bore.

I had one do that and it stayed at 1/2# - 1# for quite a while.
I thought the gauge was bad, but nailing the throttle drained the float bowls fairly quick.

Easy to fix by dis-assembling the regulator and polishing - by hand - the regulator piston bore with some 400 - 600 grit wet/dry.

Clean well when done and it will pump pressure good as new - provided it was the regulator that was hanging up.

Most Holley fuel pump failures - and probably other brands - are caused by low voltage at the pump.
Long run of small wire etc.

Do you have a picture of the front of the engine? timing tag- vibration dampner?

I dropped off my Jeep with a friend of mine with a shop. He does lots of carb'd engines and Jeeps.

While talking to him, I think we figured it out. I checked that the marks on the balancer were right. I DID NOT check if the pointer was pointing to 0 at TDC. Both of us were almost sure that was it (since engine is original, and everything else is aftermarket, they may not line up correct).

I'll let you guys know.

It seems that was it. This is where things get confusing, When I rotated the engine with the piston stop in place, I put a mark on the balancer using the zero on the pointer. I rotated the engine in the other direction, then made another mark on the balancer using zero on the pointer. I suppose I could have used any point on the pointer and acheived the same result which was to check TDC on the balancer.

To find out where the mark is on the pointer, I THINK what I need to do is to put the piston stop back in, rotate the engine until it stops, mark where zero is FROM THE BALANCER on the timing cover. Then reverse and mark again using zero from the balancer. Then 1/2 way inbetween should be zero on the pointer (or timing cover). Reply and tell me if you think this is wrong.

In any case, I can drive it for now, and do it next week since I know it won't blow up.

By the way, here is a picture of the vehicle I have it in (my Jeep)!

Denny, that procedure is exactly what I did the other day. Will that really line up the zero on the pointer and the zero on the balancer?

If the pointer is off location, how would this procedure show me that? I'm not doubting you, maybe it's just too early for me.

Drove it in to work this morning, and it ran very strong.