Thread: progressive dual quads.
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10-17-2007 04:41 AM #1
progressive dual quads.
Hi all,,
I just got the dual quad set up for my 350 (edelbrock), my question is when setting up in a progressive manner is it better to turn the idel mixure screws the same on bolth carbs, or is it better to set the rear carb as a primary and just use the front carbs idel mixture screws to ensure front cylinders are not running lean, So it would be 2 turns on rear screws 1/2 on front carb screws. i keep getting different answers when i call the manufactuer and i dont want to hurt the motor. Any suggestions?
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10-17-2007 06:32 AM #2
With the AFB dual quads I had many moons ago, the front carb did not have idle screws, and the rear carb acted as the primary where you adjusted the idle. The front carb did not function until the progressive linkage activated it.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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10-17-2007 08:47 AM #3
Originally Posted by rumrumm
Rumrumm, do you think that helped the dual quad - cough, cough - MPG?C9
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10-17-2007 01:59 PM #4
That was back in 1969-71 when gas was 28 cents per gallon. Gas mileage? I didn't need no stinkin' gas mileage! LOL!
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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10-17-2007 02:29 PM #5
Dean, did you get your vacuum problem solved? Haven't heard back from you about it. Just curious why the thread of dual carbs when there was a problem to be solved. C'mon, inquiring minds want to know...What if the "Hokey Pokey" is what it's really all about?
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10-17-2007 05:20 PM #6
almost. it was just running realy lean on the rear carb. Placed my hand on the carb to cover primaries and it smooth out a lot had slight stumble and the idel picked up, i adjusted the idel mix screws to 2 turns out on the rear carb and 1/2 on the front and it runs mutch better vacuum almost totaly steady 18 inches, but now i noticed one of the front squirters is dripping (hence the stumble ) but only when running, checked the floats and needle and seat , same thing, reduced fuel presure to 3 psi (just a test) and still dripping shut motor off and the drip stops instantly, fuel pressure does not drop stays where set. i have no idea, any suggestions?
P.S. thanks for all your help so far, you guys are great !!!!
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10-17-2007 05:30 PM #7
Holleys or Edelbrock (carters)? Double check the check ball for the squirter. It should stop the drip. If not, you possibly have a gasket not seated in the right position between the body and top aloowing syphon backand creating a venturi effect. Holley's are slightly different because of design but same symptoms.Last edited by nitrowarrior; 10-17-2007 at 05:37 PM.
What if the "Hokey Pokey" is what it's really all about?
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10-17-2007 06:33 PM #8
edelbrocks, where is the check ball ? do i have to remove the carb or just take of the top to get to it ?
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10-17-2007 08:32 PM #9
Originally Posted by Dean C.Ken Thomas
NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
The simplest road is usually the last one sought
Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing
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10-19-2007 04:19 PM #10
after 2 days of thrying to fix this problem, edelbrock told me to send them the carb they think somthing is cracked, we will se when i get thte new one how it runs.. thanks guys
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01-17-2008 07:42 AM #11
Originally Posted by Dean C.I have two brains, one is lost and the other is out looking for it
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02-13-2008 08:45 PM #12
Hi all sorry i have not gotten back sooner small computer problem then i could not log back on,, anyways, i got the 2 4's working pretty good. very slight stumble at idel just needs a fine tune after motor breaks in. almost done i attached pics of car let me know what ya think.
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02-14-2008 05:09 AM #13
Nice looking car!
I always like more than one carb!
PatHemiTCoupe
Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.
Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
1927 Ford T Tudor Sedan -CPI Vortec 4.3
'90 S-15 GMC pick up
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02-14-2008 03:31 PM #14
Thanks, It is a 1936 plymouth 5 window
i have one question i just bouht a carb tuning dvd because they siad they showed how to tune 2 4's but it did not. so i e mailed the company on the dvd and asked them this is what they said.
I REALLY don't recommend running any kind of progressive linkage between the front and rear carbs on any twin carb set-up. Progressive linkage is great for six pack set ups where one CENTER carb runs the engine evenly up until half throttle, then the outer two carbs come-in later on (progressivly) for full throttle pulling.
Setting a front or a rear carb up as progressive can make the front or rear of the engine run lean, depending on which one comes in later. I would highly recommend running both carbs in perfect sync with each other.
Adjusting the idle mixture screws a bit more on the rich side for one of the carbs will only cause it to run slightly richer during, and right off an idle, but not at part throttle or while under normal acceleration. Under normal driving conditions, you are pulling from the main jets, NOT the idle mixture circuits that the screws adjust. They call them IDLE mixture screws for a reason :-)
Does progressive linkage work? Yes, but as I said.... IF there is a center carb to run the engine EVENLY, and 2 outer carbs that come-in progressivly as you get into the throttle. It is not good for your engine to have one carb running at part throttle while the other is closed. Make them both the same or you're asking for engine damage.
Have a good one,
Arron
Now i am nervuse i don't want to cause any damage to the motor, any suggestions?Last edited by Dean C.; 02-14-2008 at 03:35 PM.
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02-14-2008 05:36 PM #15
Thanks Denny
this is the best pic i can get of the linkage, i'm just worries that i should be set up 1:1 insted of progressive.
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