Thread: Unknown cam?

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I dont know why you could'nt, but I am almost sure you are not supposed to. It could be maybe because the short duration on a hydraulic cam is too steep of a climb and rapid step down for a solid lifter. The hydraulic spring might compensate for this quick action. I am only speculating now though, just letting my common sence work a bit, and sometimes thats a stretch. That is a good question I think. I am thinking with my solid roller for example, lash is set at .018 and .022, thats not much play for the quick and rapid lobe to lifter movement required especialy at 7000 RPM. remember just talking out my azz at this point.

You may have a Comp Cams XE268H. Follow this link and then call/email these guys for some more help in identification.

http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...x?csid=93&sb=2

While I have never used this cam, specifications look pretty good for a TPI small block.

A solid lifter cam has a take-up ramp that slowly eases the lifter up until the clearance is gone. If you put hydraulic lifters on one, the valve starts opening way too soon, and since it only opens the amount that the clearance is supposed to be, the valves will burn out prematurely and the engine will run poorly at idle due to the too-long duration.

FWIW, you can run solid lifters with a hydraulic cam but not the other way around. If you do run solid lifters with a hydraulic cam, you set the tappets at .003-.004. I know, because back in the 1960's I did it on the 283 I built for my '59 Impala. This was on the advice of the machinist that worked with me on the engine. I never had any problems with it.

So would it be safe to say that solid lifters would be the best to run if I can't find out whether it's a hyd or solid? Seems to me that a solid would follow the profile regardless of what it is whereas a hydrolic could possibly collapse because a solid profile may be too steep for the hydrolic valving action of the lifter.? I did check it with a degree wheel and dial indicator and it comes out to 230/230@480/480 w108 ICL. I know it's an Erson brand and I found a cam with the same specs on their website.! Also, my dad had a brand new, still in the box Comp cam, with card and all, and I put it in and checked the same way I'd been checking the other and it came out to exactaly what the card showed! I feel confident with my measurements, since I have a known cam to compare against now. A larger degree wheel would be nice too, since the 11" one I'm using now is kinda, eh, but it works. Anyone know what a cam like this would be good for? Still curious about the lifters though. Thanks for all the replys!

If you know it is an Erson cam, call them and give them your specs. Chances are they can tell you whether if it is for hydraulic or solid lifters. And make sure your valve springs are matched to the cam. The wrong springs can cause cam failure or valve float. If in doubt, buy new ones from Erson. Good luck.

Just to really get ya'll riled up, the junkyard motor I'm using this cam is a factory roller block! What a waste, huh?

Originally Posted by SSsuperdave

Just to really get ya'll riled up, the junkyard motor I'm using this cam is a factory roller block! What a waste, huh?

That statement might stir up a hornets nest!

Originally Posted by SSsuperdave

Just to really get ya'll riled up, the junkyard motor I'm using this cam is a factory roller block! What a waste, huh?

You should be tied to a pole and caned.

Put the cam back in the block and check the intake closing point at zero lift and 0.050" tappet lift. That will tell you what static compression ratio you need to use in the motor to get the proper dynamic compression ratio in order to have a motor or not have a motor.