Thread: Setting distributor.

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Viking,
Could you explain it a little better. I adjust both intake and exhaust valves at once. Like when number 6 is a rocking, I adjust both valves on number 1. How far do you rotate it bfore you adjust the other valve?

Originally posted by toolow 69C10
Viking,
Could you explain it a little better. I adjust both intake and exhaust valves at once. Like when number 6 is a rocking, I adjust both valves on number 1. How far do you rotate it bfore you adjust the other valve?

hmmmm, I'll try, pick any cylinder.......we'll say #4......as you are watching both valve springs rotate the engine, (normal direction) with a ratchet untill one or the other is fully compressed (open) now you adjust/set the OTHER one, mark it some way to keep up with your progress, rotate again (always the same way) till the one you just set is fully compressed (open) now set the other, mark it and go to another cylinder, order does NOT matter as long as you do them all..................now since there is some question as to if you have been adjusting correctly I would pull and check ALL of your pushrods as you are setting and see how many you have bent........good thing is they don't cost much.........good luck.

It's starting to sound like I just need to tear this engine back down and start over.

Try what Viking says to do, it wont hurt anything, if it does not run then, start over.

I'll work on it Wed. and Thurs. and post again . I'll let the forum know what progress I make. Thanks for all the help' especially the geezers group.

Originally posted by toolow 69C10
It's starting to sound like I just need to tear this engine back down and start over.

Before going that far,
Start at the timing chain and make sure your marks are correct

I will look Wed. Does any one run the two piece timing chain cover and does it make checking the timing sprocket alignment easier ?
After talking to a couple guys at work they suggested unhooking my tach, they said it could be bad causing this. Ever hear of that ?

After reading all this Ill chime in, Sounds to me like you have your timing chain screwed up, thats whats causing it to pop through the carb, I have been through all of this with numerous times,it ended up being my timing chain once. I doubt its your timing, if you have been moving it and tried it everywhere then i think it would have fired. Are you flooding this thing? thats something else you should look into. Yes two piece timing covers are the best, makes cam changes easy and makes checking your timing chain really easy, your most likely gonna have to pull this motor back apart, drop the pan and pull the timing chain cover off, make sure your marks are aligned although i run mine at 12 and 12 instead of 12 and 6. Bad news is i hope you havent been cranking all day like you said, if so i dont know how well that cams gonna hold up, thats an easy way to destroy one. If you have spark, and your valves are adjusted right then im gonna go with timing chain. what kind of cam is that? solid? hydraulic? roller? how are you setting your valves? I use the cap, when the rotor comes around and points at the number one plug wire(point on the cap) then adjust number one intake and exhaust, then turn your crank to the next wire( or point on cap) and adjust that cylinder (8) then 4-3-6-5-7-2 etc. Well keep everyone posted on your progress. good luck

All right, I worked on this today.

I replaced my hot wire going to the distributor with one I order. It had the GM plug so I could plug it in more securely.

I reset the distributor with # 1 at TDC on compression stroke.
The rotor points at # 1 cylinder. I also lubed the advance while I had it off.

I checked the gap on all my plugs and they are at .045

I checked firing order 18436572 clockwise on cap.

I bought a new timing light because I thought the old one was bad. When I hooked it up to number 1 sparkplug wire and crank the engine the light is erratic. I do not see my timing marks.

So I hooked it up to plug wire # 3 the light worked perfectly and there were my timing marks.

What does this mean ? and how do I fix it ?
Thanks

So I'm going to move my number 1 plug to the number 3 on the cap. If it runs there fine, but I'll still tear it down to fix it right. This is a project so I have time to do it at my leisure.
I begining to think the timing chain has jumped a tooth or two as some of you have pointed out earlier. What causes this ?, I had a new double roller chain and gears. I would also like suggestions on what brand and design to replace it with ? and any suggestions on the proper way to install the new one.

Thanks

I,m having a few problems with a big block chevy. right now i cant get to run. i will be checking for tdc and #1 later today when the sun comes up. but this is my problem fouling spark plugs terrible response ect. heres what i got goin 454 .30 over 10.5 to1 a healthy rv cam edelbrock performer 750 holley vacuum sec. hei dist w/msd6a , and pete jackson gear drive lunati roller rockers and head work all new manley valves stock intake 2.10 exuast

Pulled my timing chain cover off and my timing marks on the sprockets line up. I have not jumped time.
When I pulled the oil pan off to change the front and rear oil seal gaskets it smelled like gas. The oil was thin too. What did I do ? How do I fix it ?

my rat quit on me a few weeks ago could'nt get it to start after checking the timing numerous times it turnded out to be bad dist.