Thread: Help to get off the line please!

Tweet

A sensor would cost 50 dollars new and the bung 5 dollars, digital volt meter 20 dollars. If your really on a budget you could get a sensor from the junk yard for free.
Also are you using a adjustable vacuum canister?

Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver

Also are you using a adjustable vacuum canister?

Yes and since installing it I cannot get the car to NOT ping under various conditions, even with the vac hose disconnected, must be those new spark plugs

What octane gas are you using? And where does the ping occur? Light acceleration from cruise?

Originally Posted by Mikej

What octane gas are you using? And where does the ping occur? Light acceleration from cruise?

I am running 87 octane, which is what I prefer for obvious reasons, I will try the next tank (in about 2 days if I keep test driving 5x per day) at 93 octane and see what happens with the current setup.

By retarding my initial timing to 10 degrees I seem to have eliminated partial and full throttle pinging under load (going up hill strong) but when accelerating strong out of a turn it will ping for sure, I am not sure if it still pings during light acceleration from cruise anymore, it did before I retarded it to 10.

The pinging issue started after I installed new spark plugs and an adjustable vac adv can on my dizzy (left stock weights and springs in there for now)

Started a new thread on this subject too...

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Transition circuit is a step or two fat... As Glen said, most are fat out of the box... If you don't have the Edelbrock calibration kit, you'll need to get it then follow the chart in the book (or on the Edelbrock site) to get the carb dialed in... Once you get the calibration right on the carb, you may want to reconnect the vacuum to the ported side of the carb, then work on the vacuum canister to slow down the advance rate a bit.....

The cam you have was used by G.M for 20 years in 305s and 350 and is a
easy to live with but has been best described as a "LAZY" Cam.
My Engineer recalibrated it and set it up with another 4* advance on
top of the Comp cams grind and that made a difference down low but cost
a bit on top as expected..Later I swapped it for a 222/222..450/460 GM
cam which is a mild cam & increased the Rear wheel torque by 155 lbs max.
My 355" had 195 TFS heads and 10.1/1 comp with 1.5/8 headers into a
2.5" system after collectors. Holley 600 with 6lbs fuel pressure+ 38* Total
advance. [10* static.] All the best with the project

Originally Posted by skyeking

The cam you have was used by G.M for 20 years in 305s and 350 and is a easy to live with but has been best described as a "LAZY" Cam.

Interesting, I would love to know the notorious history of this "lazy" grind...

My Engineer recalibrated it and set it up with another 4* advance on top of the Comp cams grind and that made a difference down low but cost a bit on top as expected

This is the beauty of this hobby, unlimited options and opportunities to play!

Thanks for your repy

Summit has sensor, bung and guage for less than $100. I just ordered them for my flathead...just wondering which exhaust to put bung in or can I do both with another bung and sensor?

Originally Posted by Ford Guy

Summit has sensor, bung and guage for less than $100. I just ordered them for my flathead...just wondering which exhaust to put bung in or can I do both with another bung and sensor?

The bung is usually installed close to the collector, mark the spot where the sensor will fit and be able to be installed and removed in-car (that's kinda important) and drill/weld the bung in.

There are other gauges out there that are dual and run 2 sensors, one on each side, but are more around $300 price range for some reason.

Honestly, once it is set up I wouldn't think you need it, just one more gauge to glutter up the dash and distract you, but it is nice to have