Thread: First Oil Change/Break In Opinions Please

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Well to be honest I haven't been taking it easy on my new engine, but I do want to *try* to break it in properly and have read a few differing procedures, namely David Vizard's (who's book I followed in building the engine) and GM's procedures that come with crate motors.

Both advocate a first oil change relatively soon after the initial break-in period, around 200+ miles I believe, but after that the procedures split.

GM recommends changing oil and filter after initial cam break in and a series of part and full throttle runs and filling with 20W50 and driving for 500 miles normally then change oil and filter use 10W40 and you're done.

David Vizard recommends changing oil and filter (after the first 500 miles of EASY driving) with usual oil and filter then drive 2000 miles EASILY and THEN another oil and filter change and drive normally - too late for that already!

Wondering what you guys do with a new engine in regards to break in and first oil change. SHould I bother with 20W50 or just keep it real with 10W40 at regular intervals - too late to *take it easy* but I am not racing it so that is at least good

Look forward to hearing from you guys!

I put a GM crate motor in my truck. Filled it with 10-40 from the git-go and changed it after 250 miles. As far as speeds ... I drove that pig like I stole it. Kept 10-40 in it for 210,000 miles now. Still purrs...

I have dragrace for a long time and with each and every motor I ever built i drove it like i stole it. Now on my race motors I always ran methanol, which i change oil after each outing. never had a engine failure due to oil or break in . basically same thing on street motors other than change oil ever 3000 miles .

I change the oil immediately after the initial run in, then again after about 500 miles....

The initial start-up at 2000-2500 rpm idle for 20 minutes is for breaking in the cam. The rings also need to be set. I like the break in procedure that came with my ZZ502 (hydraulic roller engine). In summary,

1) Start and set timing, check for leaks etc
2) Drive for 30 miles. During the first 30 miles no full throttle romps or continuous throttle prolonged runs. Do 5-6 half-throttle accels to 60 mph letting off in gear each time down to 20-30 mph. Do 5-6 3/4 throttle runs to 60 mph letting off the throttle each time in gear.
3) Change oil, retorque heads (good idea for all aluminum head engines)
4) Drive normally for 500 miles. No full throttle runs and no prolonged runs at the same rpm.
5) Change oil
6) Engine is now ready to rock and roll!

The first 30 miles is really designed to set the rings. The next 500 breaks in the rings and cylinder bores. Makes some sense to me ............

Kitz

Years ago I had a friend whose Dad owned a Pontiac/ Cadillac dealership. My friend got a new Pontiac every other year.......421 Grand Prixs, tripower GTO's, etc. He drove them hard from mile one and they always ran like stink. He swore it was because he broke them in the way he was going to drive them and that the parts wore in to that kind of use and consequently made good HP.

I don't know if there was any truth to his philosophy, but every car he had was a bit faster than other cars like his.

Don

Thanks for the advice, I changed oil to 10W40 but noted something interesting, using a different brand/size filter my oil pressure went up...

Smaller filter = more resistance?

dont use fram i had one come apart not good. my oil psi is well over 80 with a 2 qt wix filter. and straight 50 weight.

AC, Wix, Donaldson, Baldwin do real good. I had a Fram on my Duramax, and had pressure problems. Switched to Donaldson, and all's well now.

Fram must have switched manufacturers or something. Back in the 80's and early 90's they were great filters. In the 2000's, I notice alot of folks have quit using them and complaints of problems increased alot.

Fram has a horrible reputation these days..........I've seen lots of bad experiences on various forums. Our local Advanced Discount Auto has one cut open as a display and the insides are just laid in the housing, not really fastened down. By contrast the Purolator they have has the element firmly secured as part of the housing and it is much more substantial than the Fram.

At one time Fram was all I would use in high oil pressured applications but no more.

Don

I'm not using a FRAM filter but will switch back to a Delco PF-35 as soon as possible - like the taller filter for griping too