Thread: Gas in oil. What causes this ?

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I still can't get my 350 to run. Thought it was the timing but after checking every thing out, the timing is right. When I pulled off my timing chain cover the gears were lined up. Then when I dropped the oil pan to replace the front oil seal I smelled gas and the oil looked thin. I'm running a new Edelbrock 750 carb and a high volume holley mechanical fuel pump. Can someone point me in the right direction. How about you Streets ?

Thanks

I had that happen to me once on a 5 Hp briggs horizontal shaft in the tech room, my teacher told me it was blowing by the rings or the timing was off, the motor only ran for about 30 seconds b4 it died again. I know that is a small engine but all 4 strokes have the same concept and run the same way. Up, open a couple valves go back down. Streets can forbetter my response and confirm one of the circumstances I have given you or give a correct one if any of mine are not correct.

hey I had this happen on a 350 chev and it was only the fuel pump. If it's a standerd pump check it out it was leaking back into the engine and down to the oil pan. You could still get the big boom but I have a feeling since it won't start that might be it.

Toolow, gas in the pan means you are flooding the engine and then while it is sitting, the gas seeps past the rings and into the oil pan. Flooding comes either by your needle and seats not closing due to dirt in them or your fuel pump puts out too much pressure. What p.s.i. is your fuel pump rated at?

Toolow; I agree with Tycoon [HE!HE! Tycoon] sounds like your flooding it out! You can allways add a fuel regulator,If you have not already,and cut your fuel flow back a little.

Vegas

Well think of the compustion triangle. One point is fuel, one point is spark, and the other is compression. If you have all these then it has to start. If it spits and sputers, then its either ignition or valve timing. If it just cranks and thats it, then it's way flooded and may be timing to boot. How many engines have you worked on? The more you do it, the the quicker you'll get at finding and sorting problems( trouble shooting). Oh yeah don't forget what they said or we're not kiddin....................BOOOM!!! trust me.
Another thing, If a stock pump feeds 2 fours on a 426, then chances are you don't really need that high volume. Unless you've got a way radical mouse. A stock pump is plenty up to 350 hp.

Getting enough fuel in the oil pan to cause thinning indicates a serious fuel leak. This is either caused by so much pressure that the float needle cannot shut off the flow, the float level is too high, the needle is damaged or the needle is restricted from closing. I have used the squirt can method before to run an engine with a faulty carb but I cannot recommend you try this. You put your nose hair in danger with this method.

I'll try again Thursday, my day off, I have the oil filter but need to pick up some oil. I do not have a fuel regulator but I think I'll get one.
Streets I'm confused about the timing marks. My camshaft sprocket mark is at 6 and my crankshaft mark is at 12. The timing marks on my dampner/ timing cover tab are at 0. Are you saying with the marks this way I need to point my rotor to # 6 ? and have #1 at TDC when I put the dizzy in ? Thanks for all the replies and I know I'll get this going with all the help.

WOW! Talk about the confusing. Timing is the key here. To adjust valves put each cylinder at TDC on the comp stroke and adjust each one according to firing order, vac valve pointing toward #4 and rotor pointing to #1 @ TDC on #1 comp stroke its that simple. STOP _THINK _DO...Look at all the threads over the past few weeks... If you feel like you are chasing your tail you probably are(speaking from experience).If you did it right then a component let you down. Which one is newest or oldest or modified from before?