Thread: Building a Flathead for the very first time

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Speedway Motors is in Lincoln Ne, not all that far from you---they could probably recommend someone near you to hone the block--------------If you can't find anyone out that way you might consider shipping it to me---sorta back logged some but I have a flattie I'm going to be doing for myself and could maybe do both at same time---------

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Speedway Motors is in Lincoln Ne, not all that far from you---they could probably recommend someone near you to hone the block--------------If you can't find anyone out that way you might consider shipping it to me---sorta back logged some but I have a flattie I'm going to be doing for myself and could maybe do both at same time---------

WOW!! Now thats a offer you can't refuse!! AAA+++ Pete

If you're going the full tear down route I would suggest you not spend a dime on parts until you've had the block cleaned, magnafluxed, AND pressure tested. A sonic check of the bores would be in order too if it needs more than just the hone. These blocks are notorious for cracks. The most common are from valve seat area to the bore edge........and many times down the bore. BUT, they can often crack IN the intake and exhaust runners (not easy to see, thus the pressure check). The deck cracks can sometimes be stitched, the cracks down the bore are often fatal, but might be saved with a sleeve. After all that these also need greater attention paid to cleaning out the coolant passages, particularly near the base of the cylinders. It's not unusual to find original core sand, and of course scale build up from years of water. Poking with rods, dropping repeatedly on a piece of plywood, whatever it takes to get in the nooks and crannies. You'll never work so hard to make (with some speed parts and good tuning) around 150 hp.

Hiya!

Jerry, if you're serious then so am I, It's vital to have the machining do by someone who does em and it'll be ready to go as of this week. If I have to i'll drive the block to your shop, whatever it takes. Please get in touch so we can iron out the particulars. I may need a couple weeks so the owner can fork over some expense money and I can do that coolant passage cleaning that Bob suggested but we do need a machine shop badly. I just don't know of any in the Kansas City area. And I was the best machine shop in California Hehe. But not any more. Please get in touch.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

If you're going the full tear down route I would suggest you not spend a dime on parts until you've had the block cleaned, magnafluxed, AND pressure tested. A sonic check of the bores would be in order too if it needs more than just the hone. These blocks are notorious for cracks. The most common are from valve seat area to the bore edge........and many times down the bore. BUT, they can often crack IN the intake and exhaust runners (not easy to see, thus the pressure check). The deck cracks can sometimes be stitched, the cracks down the bore are often fatal, but might be saved with a sleeve. After all that these also need greater attention paid to cleaning out the coolant passages, particularly near the base of the cylinders. It's not unusual to find original core sand, and of course scale build up from years of water. Poking with rods, dropping repeatedly on a piece of plywood, whatever it takes to get in the nooks and crannies. You'll never work so hard to make (with some speed parts and good tuning) around 150 hp.

yes been there )

Just so you know---------I'm not going to be able to work on my omn stuff until about November---------

Hiya,

I just found out that the same race shop I get my nitrous from has a machinist who thinks he knows about flatheads at least he was working on a 37 block when I talked to him. So now the block is getting cleaned and prepped. It's all up to him and the owner now. I think the block is good. It's been bored 40 over and the crank is 10/10. He says crank needs to be balanced so far.
All I hafta do is clean the engine bay and convert to 12 volts.
So far...

Originally Posted by Good Wrench

Ok so I can prop the crank in the corner, good....

No, you can stand the crank up vertical on a sturdy, level surface if it will stand on it's own. You do NOT want to "prop it up in a corner" or it will tend to bend with gravity.

Thanks, I think the machinist set it on the ground flat. I hope he knows what he's doing.

Why don't you go to the fordbarn.com web site? Everything you need to know or ask can be answered there. That's all these guys do is flatheads. I'm not trying to diss this board, just trying to get you to the best place for your questions.