Thread: drag engine build

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Hi Guys
got a few questions for you's Im building a 460 engine to be used for drag racing. this is a list of parts i plan on using....please reply to if im on the right track and if im missing something that i should be doing, yes, this is a kinda low dollar engine

- 460 block bored out .030
- heads are D3VE-A2A ( ported and polished )
- Keith Black flat top pistons
- stock crank and rods
- weiand tunnel ram with a pair of 600 holleys
- Comp cam .672 lift intake and .679 exhaust lift
duration numbers are .050 in lift at 245 degrees on the intake and 260 degrees on the exhaust with 110 degrees of lobe seperation ( PN.34-000-9 )
this is a solid roller cam because there is not a radical enough hyd cam out there for this engine but i will be using a set of hyd crane roller lifters ( they will match...its been proven. )
- 1.73 roller rocks.
- 1 7/8 headers

This engine will be run with a C6 trans with a 3500 stall converter.
The car is a 75 mustang cobra gutted and tubed

Will this be a good combonation?..is there something else i should consider?
any advice is good advise
Thanks
Rick

Flat top pistons sounds like a low-compression engine. I assume you'd run it on race gas, so you'll be giving up some horsepower. If it is a racing engine, why would you want to go this way? Just curious.

There are better heads that you could begin a build with. Those heads have 95 cc chambers, so with flat-tops, you're gonna have a low compression motor that HOTRODPAINT alluded to.

I'd start with some of the earlier heads. Here's a compilation from Scott at Reincarnation. He's probably the best Lima iron head guru in the country.
http://www.reincarnation-automotive....s-1-index.html

Flat top pistons with those heads will give you about 9.2:1 compression ratio. I feel this is too low compression for the camshaft you intend to use. You will need dome top pistons to increase compression or you will need to change your head choice to that of a smaller combustion chamber volume.

If you switch to the early-style head (C8VE, C9VE, D0VE) you will increase compression ratio to almost 11:1 with the flat top pistons. This compression ratio is better suited for your camshaft.

Between changing pistons and changin heads, the head change is technically a better way to go because the flat-top pistons will be lighter than the dome top pistons, but either way will work. Valve train mods are also required of the D3VE cylinder heads, unlike the early style heads mentioned above.

Also, if the KB's are hypereutectic pistons, then you may want to consider forged pistons for a motor that will be seeing regular abuse. 3500 rpm souds like quite a high stall speed even for this motor in that car...are you sure you need that much stall?

Finally, the stock rods are marginal in high rpm/high HP applications. You will be pushing the limits of those rods and should at least prep them and put in some quality rod bolts. Aftermarket rods would be a better choice.



Paul

"........The car is a 75 mustang cobra gutted and tubed......."

COOL

I known that we use studs for the bottom end and the top, Like paul K said consider some better rods and different pistons. On my 460 build up I have dome pistons, the compression of 13.1.
And try and stay away from the electric water pumps. ALTHOUGH I HAVE ONE, I CAUGHT HELL, TRYING TO PUT ALL THAT IN THEIR AND WITH THE LARGE RAD, I'M USING I HAD TO GO WITH TWO 13" PUSHER FANS. Not sure how its all going to work out but I sure spent a lot of money and a lot of time fabricating everything. Plus most of the guys here will warn you away from electric water pumps and ford doesn't make any brackets for the alternator, on a bb when using electric water pump, so you will have to fabricate up a bracket as well. If there is a bracket for the bb ford alternator with a electric water pump please let me known.

Great info guys ...BUT....heres the deal...I live in northern Ontario Canada and good parts are really rare, took me 3 months just to find the heads that i finally found. Accually i ended up buying 2 complete engines out of 2 older Lincons for $200.00 a peice ( incase i blow one engine up ...lol) I totally understand what your saying about the lower compression, and yes it would be great to have more. Ive boughten some parts out of the states from Jegs etc. but the shipping ends up costing me more than the parts...lol. So with that said, I guess it would be cheeper and easier to go with a set of domed piston then..right? I used to race modified dirt track cars here and in Wisconson and Minnisota so it wasnt hard not to have to pay the shipping..lol
- So i should be going with forged pistons then Paul?
- The 3500 stall was what was recomended by Edelbrock, you think a 3500 stall is to high?..what do you recommend Paul?
- I do plan on using after market bolts in the rods
- What valve mods are needed on the D3VE heads Paul?
- The flat top pistons was ( emphisize WAS before talking to you guys ..lol) the choice because of price and availability.
- just incase your wondering, the tunnel ram and carbs are because ive had this intake and carb sitting around for quit some time...might as well put it to use.
- Im already a subscriber to Reincarnation techinspector 1 but thanks for that info anyways. and yes the man is good.
You Guys Are The Best. Thanks for all the info, and NOOOO im not finished picking your brains,...lol
Rick

Originally posted by maxed_out_rpms

- So i should be going with forged pistons then Paul?

The chepest forged dome pistons for the stock rods are the TRW L2443's, but as I understand it they are currently discontinued/under revision by Speed-Pro, so you'll really have to look around to fine them. With D3VE's, they will bring compression ratio fo about 10.6:1 or so, depending on bore, etc. You may also consider forged flat-tops with early-style heads and get the same compression ratio.

Originally posted by maxed_out_rpms

- The 3500 stall was what was recomended by Edelbrock, you think a 3500 stall is to high?..what do you recommend Paul?

Less than that! Honestly though, I am not a drag car guy...I am into drag boats. But I think you'd be better off with a stall speed just under 3000 rpm unless the ONLY time you will be running this car is at the track.

Originally posted by maxed_out_rpms

- What valve mods are needed on the D3VE heads Paul?

The D3VE valve train is different than the early-style cylinder heads and cannot accomodate the camshaft you will be using. You will need to swich to a stud mounted aftermarket roller rocker and this requires modifying/madhining the D3VE head for these rockers & their mounting studs.

For some reason, I am unable to upload pics, so here is a link to the print for the D3VE valve train mod:

http://home.earthlink.net/~highflowd...edestalmod.jpg

It is not necessary to remove the whole .300" as outlined in the print, but perhaps just .100" Then, if more material removal is needed, you may still remove more...without the risk of initially removing too much, depending on your final valve train combo/setup.

Paul

What heads are you using TedIII, probaly not the D3VE heads though right?