Thread: Head Gasket Problems

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Does anyone know if there is a problem with my 429 blowing head gaskets,or is a 11.3 to 1 compression too much for fel-pro gaskets. Would I be better off using edelbrock head gaskets for this engine or what. I may be doing something wrong. I put a new radiator(3 core) and with just a couple of half hard runs for a quarter mile or so, I keep blowing head gaskets. Please give me any advice you can. I'm stumped. Thanks.

even the high-performance fel-pro gaskets aren't going to help too well with that kind of compression... you should try using the Mr gasket ones with the steel inserts, or maybe even.... or maybe even try some extra thick ones which will lower your compression a hair, but it might be what you need to do... i've used the milodon copper gaskets before, they're a little pricey, but they seemed to do me good

My best guess would be that either the heads aren't flat or the decks aren't flat or both. Get your hands on a machinist's straight-edge and a feeler gauge and check 'em.

I had ordered some edelbrock head gaskets, however after reading your reply I went ahead and ordered some Mil-40031 copper head gaskets. I hope they do the trick. The gaskets I have been using were Fel-Pro and I paid something like twenty something dollars for them. The edelbrock gaskets costs me fifty nine dollars. The copper gaskets costs me ninety three dollars. Maybe the old saying is true, you get what you pay for. Wish me luck. Thanks a lot.

Sometime ago I remember hearing of having the block or head groved for wire rings or orings I'm not sure how that worked but probably cost more than the gaskets.

cffisher---your right, what your referring to is called "having an engine o-ringed." A groove is cut into either the block or the head or sometimes both, concentric with each cylinder bore. A round copper wire fits into the groove, but sets proud of the groove by a few thou for crush when the engine is assembled.

with copper gaskets you dont have to o-ring til you hit 14:1 CR... or at least thats what they say....

Detonation destroys head gaskets.

Alright jd, you've had 3 days to check 'em, are the heads and decks flat or not?

Originally posted by techinspector1
Alright jd, you've had 3 days to check 'em, are the heads and decks flat or not?

i bet he hasn't checked them....he really ought to... just since he blew them that many times, they probably arent anymore

I will probably take the engine heads off today(Wednesday) because I expect my head gaskets to come in within a couple of days. I will check the heads and block as best I can. How much torque should I put on the head bolts? If I need them, I will pull out the head bolts and go with studs, if that makes a difference. I was born in 1954 and worked on these old type motors growing up, and I've helped my father overhaul motors before, and we never had this type problem, however................. the motors I've worked on as a young man didn't have 11.3 to 1 compression ratio. Is this what is making a difference? Thanks for all you people who have offered advice. I appreciate it.

I couldn't find a sequence chart specifically for a 429, but the one I have here for the 332-428 at the bottom of the page is the same sequence. Start at #1, tighten to 75 ft./lbs., go to #2, 75 ft./lbs. and so on through #10. Then go back to #1 and tighten to 105 ft./lbs., then #2 to 105 ft./lbs and so on through #10. Then go back to #1 and tighten to 140 ft./lbs., then #2 to 140 ft./lbs. and so on through #10.
http://www.galaxieclub.com/headbolts.html

76GMC1500 makes a good point also about detonation. Make sure the motor isn't detonating on the fuel you're using or it'll continue to spit gaskets out.

yup... at that kind of compression you're more likely to blow heads anyways, so you need to make sure you're running high enough octane to keep detonation away, and you gotta use quality headbolts/studs along with quality gaskets....