Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: New or Same Head Bolts
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 15 of 29

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    IC2
    IC2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    UPSTATE New York
    Posts
    4,336

    Replacement bolts = cheap engine insurance.

    I would go for studs for better clamping rather then bolts - and they are cheaper.

    P/N ARP-155-4003 with hex head nuts, @$153 from Summit(the 12 point nut versions are out of sight pricewise)
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  2. #2
    C9x's Avatar
    C9x
    C9x is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    N/W Arizona
    Car Year, Make, Model: Deuce Highboy roadster
    Posts
    1,174

    Quote Originally Posted by IC2
    Replacement bolts = cheap engine insurance.

    I would go for studs for better clamping rather then bolts - and they are cheaper.

    P/N ARP-155-4003 with hex head nuts, @$153 from Summit(the 12 point nut versions are out of sight pricewise)


    If you go for head studs, be sure you can slide the head off without doing a lot of extra work.

    I assembled the 462" Buick engine in my roadster on an engine stand.

    Not too far down the road I pulled the heads to machine for Teflon guides and different springs.
    I found the right side head would not come off due to a conflict with the 32's sticks-out-a-touch front body mount.
    Had to pull the ARP studs which isn't too bad, but the two end ones are down in a well.

    Last time I had the head off, I stuck ARP head bolts in it.

    Kinda funny looking, but no one has ever commented about the right side bolts and left side studs.

    Sorta like my pal from back in the day, he showed up with his flathead powered 49 Ford coupe with an aluminum head on one side and a factory head on the other.
    Ran ok, kinda made folks wonder though....
    C9

  3. #3
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    so.cal
    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 c 10 fleetside longbed
    Posts
    1,942

    I guess my next motor is going to "have" to be a stock parted 460 stroker,max effort design.Utilizing almost all factory parts,pistons and rods have to go,....but the rest will make smiles!!!!!
    Heres a pic,just for Erik....
    Attached Images
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  4. #4
    Paul Kane's Avatar
    Paul Kane is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Bay Area
    Car Year, Make, Model: Southwind Jet Boat & Dimarco Hydro
    Posts
    326

    Cool

     



    Mempho,

    Tell us more specifics about your build, such as compression ratio, intended rpm range, hp target, engine application, fuel usage (alcohol, race gas, pump gas, etc.), iron or aluminum heads, etc. That will help determine the use of the proper head bolts.

    Most people I know use the oem 429/460 head bolts to over 13:1 compression ratio without incident.

    Paul
    Last edited by Paul Kane; 10-04-2007 at 12:15 PM.

    429/460 Engine Fanatic

  5. #5
    Paul Kane's Avatar
    Paul Kane is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Bay Area
    Car Year, Make, Model: Southwind Jet Boat & Dimarco Hydro
    Posts
    326

    Cool

     



    Quote Originally Posted by shawnlee28
    I guess my next motor is going to "have" to be a stock parted 460 stroker,max effort design.Utilizing almost all factory parts,pistons and rods have to go,....but the rest will make smiles!!!!!
    Heres a pic,just for Erik....
    shawlnee,

    That pic looks like a factory iron head that was modifed a la early-style Blue Thunder's iron head exhaust ports. (BT's iron head is not in production.) The Mustang flopper car in my post above had similar portwork, although technically different...and was excecuted long before BT released their heads.

    In the correct application they can make some good power.

    Paul

    429/460 Engine Fanatic

  6. #6
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    clive
    Car Year, Make, Model: BLOWN 540 57 CHEVY
    Posts
    2,878

    Quote Originally Posted by shawnlee28
    I guess my next motor is going to "have" to be a stock parted 460 stroker,max effort design.Utilizing almost all factory parts,pistons and rods have to go,....but the rest will make smiles!!!!!
    Heres a pic,just for Erik....
    Very nice.
    What are your final port dimensions??
    What are your flow numbers??
    What is your intake to exhaust flow ratio??

  7. #7
    Mempho's Avatar
    Mempho is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Olive Branch
    Car Year, Make, Model: 56 Ford F1 429ci
    Posts
    40

    whewwhee

     



    Talk about a can of worms. This one is full of information and all appreciated. Seems there some Big Chevy worms in there too. Paul, what I've gotten myself into is that I had a set of those notoriously bad 72 heads, D2VE. Man talk about ping! I weighed my options and while I would have liked a set of aluminum heads I tried going the conservative route. I got what I thought was a good deal on a set of c9ve heads for 250.00 but then had to spend another 500.00 getting them rebuilt. Then the new studs and guideplates. Not really shooting for anything but a smoother running valvetrain. Paul, if I'm not mistaken want these heads increase the compression somewhat? When I put this 72 429 in my 56 Ford truck I had never heard about the bad heads, shoulda done my homework. By the way, I should have my new 12 point ARPS delivered tommorrow. Thanks again guys for all the info, the Hot Rod Brotherhood is Alive!

  8. #8
    Paul Kane's Avatar
    Paul Kane is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Bay Area
    Car Year, Make, Model: Southwind Jet Boat & Dimarco Hydro
    Posts
    326

    Cool

     



    Quote Originally Posted by Mempho
    Paul, what I've gotten myself into is that I had a set of those notoriously bad 72 heads, D2VE. Man talk about ping! I got ...a set of c9ve heads...Not really shooting for anything but a smoother running valvetrain. Paul, if I'm not mistaken won't these heads increase the compression somewhat? When I put this 72 429 in my 56 Ford truck I had never heard about the bad heads, shoulda done my homework. By the way, I should have my new 12 point ARPS delivered tommorrow. Thanks again guys for all the info, the Hot Rod Brotherhood is Alive!
    Your compression ratio will increase approximately 1.4 points, give or take. Did you have a very slight oblong dish or a flat top piston? Start with pump gas premium.

    OEM 429/460 head bolts are more than adequate in your application. The upgraded ARP bolts will be nothing more than "show" and are better held for a performance build...even though you likely won't need them for most any street driven 460. But they won't hurt anything either. BTW, I know of a single carb rear engine dragster currently running a 533 cubic inch engine (4.44 bore x 4.300 stroke) that dyno'd at 882 hp, and it's using stock head bolts.

    Paul

    429/460 Engine Fanatic

  9. #9
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    clive
    Car Year, Make, Model: BLOWN 540 57 CHEVY
    Posts
    2,878

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Kane
    Your compression ratio will increase approximately 1.4 points, give or take. Did you have a very slight oblong dish or a flat top piston? Start with pump gas premium.

    OEM 429/460 head bolts are more than adequate in your application. The upgraded ARP bolts will be nothing more than "show" and are better held for a performance build...even though you likely won't need them for most any street driven 460. But they won't hurt anything either. BTW, I know of a single carb rear engine dragster currently running a 533 cubic inch engine (4.44 bore x 4.300 stroke) that dyno'd at 882 hp, and it's using stock head bolts.

    Paul
    An 882hp engine that has stock head bolts??
    Why take a chance??
    When you can buy after-market head bolts/studs from ARP.
    The last set of ARP head bolts I bought for a BBF was around $100.
    $100 seems like very cheap insurance on a 882 hp engine.
    Do you by chance re-use rings and bearings??
    It has become rather apparent that you don't take engine building as serious as I do.

  10. #10
    Mempho's Avatar
    Mempho is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Olive Branch
    Car Year, Make, Model: 56 Ford F1 429ci
    Posts
    40

    Pistons,Bolts,Heads

     



    Yeah, they were very slight oblong dishes. When my Dad first looked at them he thought there had been valve contact Anyways, yeah I will use premo gas for sure. I am sure looking forward to hitting the road, lost a lot of the summer but plan on making up for the down time. We are kind slow down here.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink