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Thread: break in
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    lightning1901 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    mechanics at werk suggested using marvel mystry oil, but i thought that was supose to reduce friction, isnt that what you really want during the break in?
    and what about running at 2500 rpm?

  2. #2
    Don Dalton's Avatar
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    Angry

     



    How Many Miles?????????
    Don D

    www.myspace.com/mylil34

  3. #3
    Don Dalton's Avatar
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    Unhappy

     



    Quote Originally Posted by DennyW
    How many miles ???????????

    Please define that a little ?? What motor, what rings ? What cylinder finish ???????? That is a blank question !
    Denny you are a Hoot.
    In all honesty I don't know cyl. finish or rings. The engine(400 sbc .03 over) was purchased from an individual that had it professionally built.He was never able to build a car so I bought it.It has KB Hypereutectic T6 Alloy pistons (if that helps),# 993 heads pro rated and polished,9.5 comp.ratio,milidon ss valves,k-motion racing triple valve springs,rhoads lifters w/indexed lifter ports.86 cc'd chambers,scorpion roller rocker system,comp. (no card) special grind cam.I am not into engine building so i can only guess what break in procedure I should use.At present I have 435 Mi. using Quaker state 10W 40 oil.I drive at different speeds and it seems to perform real well.I was under the impression that 500 Mi. was the standard break in Mi.I would like to go to synthetic oil after break in ,but some of the group say go 2,000 and 3,000 Mi.

    Confused as I don't want to damage the engine by not breaking it in properly.
    Don D

    www.myspace.com/mylil34

  4. #4
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Dalton
    Denny you are a Hoot.
    In all honesty I don't know cyl. finish or rings. The engine(400 sbc .03 over) was purchased from an individual that had it professionally built.He was never able to build a car so I bought it.It has KB Hypereutectic T6 Alloy pistons (if that helps),# 993 heads pro rated and polished,9.5 comp.ratio,milidon ss valves,k-motion racing triple valve springs,rhoads lifters w/indexed lifter ports.86 cc'd chambers,scorpion roller rocker system,comp. (no card) special grind cam.I am not into engine building so i can only guess what break in procedure I should use.At present I have 435 Mi. using Quaker state 10W 40 oil.I drive at different speeds and it seems to perform real well.I was under the impression that 500 Mi. was the standard break in Mi.I would like to go to synthetic oil after break in ,but some of the group say go 2,000 and 3,000 Mi.

    Confused as I don't want to damage the engine by not breaking it in properly.
    I have read this post and something does not add up here.
    Triple valve springs with a hyd. cam??
    Most hyd. cams in a sbc run a single spring with a dampner.
    If it does have triple springs it will take the cam right out of it in less than a minute.

  5. #5
    Don Dalton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik erikson
    I have read this post and something does not add up here.
    Triple valve springs with a hyd. cam??
    Most hyd. cams in a sbc run a single spring with a dampner.
    If it does have triple springs it will take the cam right out of it in less than a minute.
    Erik: How do you inspect the valve springs to verify single verses triple? Like I said the engine was built by another person and the specs. that I have were with the engine.Is it possible that the triple springs go in after break in?The car is running well,but has not been on the Dyno.I guess without the cam card I would only be guessing the HP.I was told it was built in Nashville Tn. by a NASCAR mechanic @ a cost of $7,000.I guess I will have to wait until the engine is torn down(not now)to verify all the specs. that came with the engine.It burns me to not really know what i have in this engine.The list is long on specs.and build ,but no cam card which is critical to determine HP.
    Don D

    www.myspace.com/mylil34

  6. #6
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don Dalton
    Erik: How do you inspect the valve springs to verify single verses triple? Like I said the engine was built by another person and the specs. that I have were with the engine.Is it possible that the triple springs go in after break in?The car is running well,but has not been on the Dyno.I guess without the cam card I would only be guessing the HP.I was told it was built in Nashville Tn. by a NASCAR mechanic @ a cost of $7,000.I guess I will have to wait until the engine is torn down(not now)to verify all the specs. that came with the engine.It burns me to not really know what i have in this engine.The list is long on specs.and build ,but no cam card which is critical to determine HP.
    Don,if you pull the valve covers off you should be able to see the valve springs.
    If it has multi-springs you should be able to see one spring and then the springs inside with the smaller diameter.
    I am not trying to cause a problem but $7,000 seems like a very large amount of money for a hyd. cammed engine with ported stocker heads on it.

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