Thread: '72 429 rebuild

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Hi all, I'm new to the forum and had a few questions that I hope some of you can answer. A friend of mind just gave me a running 429 out of a 1972 Thunderbird. I plan on rebuilding it and put into a kit car. Is there any thing inparticular that I should look out for when rebuilding this engine? IE...heads, cam, crank, ETC??? Not looking for any crazy type of HP, just something that goes fast when I need it to and still has good streetability. Any info would be much appreciated, Thanks.

If the motor has D2VE heads, please remove them and use a bandsaw to cut them into slices like a loaf of bread so that nobody else will ever be tempted to use them. They are the WORST heads ever cast by anyone. Ford only made them for one year. They were replaced with D3VE's, a fairly good, large chamber head.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

If the motor has D2VE heads, please remove them and use a bandsaw to cut them into slices like a loaf of bread so that nobody else will ever be tempted to use them. They are the WORST heads ever cast by anyone. Ford only made them for one year. They were replaced with D3VE's, a fairly good, large chamber head.

I have never heard that..Interesting

Ok, understood....the heads are junk. Is there any aftermarket heads that are good at a resonable price for my application? Also any ideas about a mild cam?

I use the earlier heads 70's to be exact, a Wiend Stealth manifold, Comp 280 Hyd
cam and headers. It's a good quick street mtr. I used screw in studs, guide plates
and hardend pushrods.

You can build a decent street motor that will operate on 87 octane pump gas swill and make good power for not much money.

Bore the block 0.030" and use these pistons...
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

Find a set of D3VE heads, do a 5-angle valve job and install CompCams #924 springs. Bolt the heads on with this gasket....
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...9&autoview=sku

Static compression ratio will be 9.0:1, squish will be 0.058".

Bolt on an Edelbrock Performer RPM or RPM Air Gap intake mounting an 850 CFM vacuum secondaries carb. Weiand Stealth or Stealth Air Strike will also work.

Bolt on a good set of large-tube, equal-length headers (full long tubes, not shorties).

CompCams X4278H hydraulic flat-tappet cam. 278/288, 234/244, 0.574"/0.580", 107/115/111.

RPM HP TQ
1500 111 390
2000 170 446
2500 214 450
3000 270 472
3500 330 496
4000 377 495
4500 406 474
5000 404 425
5500 341 325

I might be thinkin' a 3.50 to 3.70 rear gear and a converter that stalls at 2000-2200 rpm's. Comp says 2500+, but with the torque this motor makes down low, I think I'd pull back a little on the converter.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

If the motor has D2VE heads, please remove them and use a bandsaw to cut them into slices like a loaf of bread so that nobody else will ever be tempted to use them.

That is officially my new favorite bad car part saying, thanks Tech.

Thanks for the info techinspector. Alread ordered the Weiand Stealth intake and I called my machine shop and am going to take the engine in on monday. Do I really to bore it to 0.030'' or could I get away .010 or .020''? Also any ideas where i can get my hands on a set of D3VE heads?

Here's a set of 0.020's for the same money. Make sure your cylinders will clean up at 0.020" before you buy the pistons.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

D3VE's are very common. Check craigslist.com or your local automotive recycling centers. (boneyards)

I'd like to add just a couple of things:

1) have the machine ship deck the cylinder block so that the pistons are at zero-deck @ TDC. This shouldn't cost more than $75-$100 and will minimize the possibility of detonation.
2) If you want D3VE heads, we've got 'em from [as-cast castings] all the way to [fully ported and outfitted with stainless valves], etc.

Call or PM if interested,

Paul
www.highflowdynamics.com