Thread: new cam

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....can i put a hi performance cam in a 429 with a very mild build, wiend stealth 8012 intake. holly carb how do i tell what size of carb it is. i was looking at lunati voodoo cams but this cam requires a minimum of 10.5:1 compression, 4.11 gearing and 3500 RPM stall converter. Works with up to 250HP nitrous, and pulls Very Hard past 6500 RPM.
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 284/292
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 241/249
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .582/.600
LSA/ICL: 110/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 2500-6600
or should i go with a mid performance cam because i don't know my engine meets the requirements what would i need to do to get that compression how would it effect my fuel grade requirements.i am very new at this. would a comp cam do good?

Way too much cam for a mild engine! You might want to go to Comp Cams web site and download their Cam Quest program. Input the information about your engine and see what it recomends... or, hang on till Techinspector, Pat, or one of the other engine guys read your post and add their input! Too much cam is probably THE most common mistake people make about parts for their engine, and the cam is crucial to good performance!!!

im new i know thank you dave for pointing me in the right direction and thanks for your time. i think a mild build will be just what i need for a beginner working on my first build.

yup, good way to go while you're learning!

Hello Gerry, any motor you build must be a combination of parts that will complement each other and work together toward a common goal. It's common for a newcomer to think that you can just choose a cam out of thin air, not taking anything else about the motor into consideration and that's the way a lot of newbies do it. Then, after they have the motor running, if they get the motor running, they are showing up on this or some other forum asking why they have less power than they did with their stock cam.

The first thing that you should understand is that you and most everybody else start at the wrong end of the car. The first things that need to be addressed are wheels, tires, suspension, shocks and gears, with gears being first in that list. Many times, with a gear change, the car will be so much quicker that you won't need to do anything else to the car. Amaze your friends and start at the rear of the car. If you plan a killer motor down the road, then install a narrowed 9 inch first thing. Use a set of performance gears, somewhere in the high 3's and install a locker in the diff.

as for my tBird i found some 3.70:1 gears for $224 at summit that with my wiend stealth 8012 intake hooker performance long tube headers, holly carb. The big question: can i port my C8VE-E heads exhaust chambers by them selves for added ponies?

Originally Posted by gerrybbf

as for my tBird i found some 3.70:1 gears for $224 at summit that with my wiend stealth 8012 intake hooker performance long tube headers, holly carb. The big question: can i port my C8VE-E heads exhaust chambers by them selves for added ponies?

Maybe, maybe not. You have to know what you're doing and where to cut. C8VE's are good flowing heads, but are a small chamber design for making high compression ratio and running on leaded, good quality gasoline like we had in the late 60's. Because they were designed to run on leaded, the valve seats are soft. Running unleaded fuel will result in valve recession down into the head as the seats are eaten away from micro-welding of the valve to the seat. Tetraethyl Lead used to provide an interference to this problem, "dirtying" up the seat so that welding could not take place. I learned this from Uncle Bob Parmenter on this forum.

With the small chambers (compared to the 95cc chambers of D3VE heads), you need a dished piston to get the SCR down to a reasonable level for using unleaded pump gas. Problem is, there are few if any good quality pistons left out there for a 429 that will allow a low SCR with the C8VE heads. Most everything you see nowadays is for a 460 and you will have difficulty finding a piston with a large enough dish using a 460 crank in your block to realize a pump-gas-friendly static compression ratio. You need a 30cc piston, but I don't find any out there that have a compression height (centerline of wrist pin to crown of piston) that will work with a 429 or 460 crank. You can buy a stroker kit that will work, using your block and rods, that includes a 30cc piston with the proper compression height to work with a 4.140" stroke crank. Here's a 501 kit (+0.030" overbore) with a 4.140 crank that results in 9.19:1 static compression ratio with your C8VE heads. See Package A below.....
Stroker Kit 460 Budget 513 533 557 Stroker Kit

so is there options on the pistions to change the compression ratio? if i do the kit that results in the low 9.19:1 static compression ratio, i could then port my heads to increase the compression ready to spray. i am willing to buy othe rheads if necessary. thanks your a big help techinspector1.

Originally Posted by gerrybbf

so is there options on the pistions to change the compression ratio? if i do the kit that results in the low 9.19:1 static compression ratio, i could then port my heads to increase the compression ready to spray. i am willing to buy othe rheads if necessary. thanks your a big help techinspector1.

Spray is a part-time thing, likely less than 1% of the total time you're going to operate the car. The other 99% of the time, you have to operate on pump gas without detonation. The program for that, with iron heads, is around 9:1.

You do not increase static compression ratio by porting the heads. You may increase BMEP, but not SCR.

will that be good for high power