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01-19-2007 05:44 PM #31
427 dealer installed
Denny,
So does that mean that the dealer also changed the VIN number. Otherwise how would you authenticate that this was not something the person did themselves much later? That it was a true W code.
Rob
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01-20-2007 10:07 AM #32
427
Denny,
I'm not suggesting anyone is wrong. I'm just curious about whether any were ever factory installed. I have a lot of information on muistangs including the original 1968 information and many books since and they all mention it as you have said but there are no production numbers.
Thanks for all the info.
Rob
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02-06-2007 06:18 AM #33
Hey Rob did you ever go see that 427 block? Just wondering what he had for the price.
G.
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02-06-2007 04:54 PM #34
427
Glenn,
He never got back to me with an address or contact info. So I guess he sold it. I will go back to my original plan of of finding a 390 block with a modest rebuild and maybe a 428 crank. Financially this will also not cost me an arm and a leg. I certainly appreciate your help and will keep you posted. Maybe someone on this forum is close to the Chicago area and has a decent block for sale.
Cheers,
Rob
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02-07-2007 05:23 AM #35
Oh sorry to hear it never worked out. Sounds like a good plan on the 390/410. I know there are a few guys on the net54 forum from Chi-town. Maybe keep a eye out there also when your ready. I spent a good part of my childhood growing up in Park Ridge. Well good luck anf keep us posted.
G.
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02-11-2007 04:36 AM #36
Another option is, I know at the machine shop that does my motors, they've just accumulated motors and parts over the years through deals and payments for other motors so if you talk to a machine shop they may have what your looking for. Suchas I had a 352 and were in need of a 390 and oddly enough he got me a 390 from the back of the shop.
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05-30-2007 07:58 PM #37
seized 390?
Hello all,
Haven't been on for awhile. I had a lead on a junkyard with older cars that I visited this past weekend. I found a nice 390 4 bbl in a 67 T-Bird but couldn't get it to turn over. I only had a ratchet and nothing I could use as a cheater to get more torque on it. The owner tried today with a big bar but still could not get it to crank over. The carb has been exposed for I don't know how long although the motor looked in good shape. So do I give up on and assume its seized or is it worth taking the heads off and having a better look? He sells his motors for $250 removed from the car which is a good deal (obviously not if it is seized). A buddy of mine picked up two 440's from him recently for that price. He has a 1974 390 (presumably an FT) from a pickup truck already good to go.
Robin
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05-31-2007 04:14 AM #38
Well if your interested a guy I know here in CT has a good running 390 and C6 for $200...and I bet he'd take $100 just to get it out of the garage.
I would not try to break that engine free right away. I'd oil it down first and several times after with PB blaster and some 10-30. But it might be worth pulling the head off and having a look inside.
G.
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05-31-2007 08:18 AM #39
seized
Glenn,
Thanks. Are you talking about oiling up the bolts to get the heads off or about getting oil into the cylinder heads? How do I do the latter without removing the heads? The prroblem is that it is about an hour drive out to this junkyard.
Robin
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05-31-2007 02:33 PM #40
Main concern is the rings frozen in the bore and stuck valves. I remove all the spark plugs and valve covers and oil down the engine with oil and PB blaster daily for a few weeks. And slowly work it free You can even just remove the rocker assy to avoid that issue completely. I do the tap and set for rusty bolts. Spray the penetrating oil onto the bolts and tap them with a brass drift and hammer. A torch is good too. The main thing is you want to get it apart without issue. That could be a problem is the car is an hour away tho. Now the other thing is maybe have him pull the engine and then give it the once over. Look at the back of the block for any sandscratchs. A or S would be a 428. Maybe ask to remove the oilpan and see how the internals are and ID the crank. It could be a 360 or 352 for all we know.
G.
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05-31-2007 03:32 PM #41
Glenn,
He won't pull it unless I am buying. Maybe I could just offer him $100 for it. It should be good for parts. The VIN indicates a Z code which would be a 390 4BBL. An S would be the 390 4 bbl GT. The former is 315 hp and the latter is 320 hp. I assume that is just a carburetion differerence?
My original car was a 4-speed but it is hard to come by a transmission. How much latitude do I have in comatibility of housings and so on over different years and blocks?
Thanks,
Robin
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05-31-2007 06:04 PM #42
Robin sent you a email with those sites we talked about. Nice speaking over the phone with you this eve. Good luck and keep me posted...
G.
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07-01-2007 07:35 AM #43
Hey Robin give me a call please. I wanted to ask you something about the new block you have. The number you called from came up unavailable on my cell and I misplaced your home number.
G.
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07-09-2007 11:41 AM #44
FFR428,
I just saw your post from May about your friend's 390 in CT. Does he still have it? I may need one for my recently purchased '65 Galaxie, as the oil has water mixed in it. The engine's not stuck, but it still can't be a good sign...
Thanks,
- John
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07-09-2007 05:00 PM #45
Sorry that's all been sold. However your 390 could be a blown headgasket among other things. If the engine has not been run long like that damage could be minimal and most likely ok when repaired. Or if you were planning a rebuild this would be the best time. If your engine is original to the car you'd want to keep it that way. If you bought the car with the engine like that it's best to just rebuild it not knowing how long it was run like that. I also have a line on another 428 engine that is a really nice deal. But it's in Va beach and is a pickup only deal. The engine is VERY affordable. PM/Email if interested.
G.
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