Thread: 352 stroker

Tweet

I recently got a 352?? FE with an auto trans attached after my dad passed away last month. According to the block ID number the block was built/designed in 1959 and was intended for a Galaxie. The last 5 digits of the ID number are 6015E. Here are my questions:::

1) Is it a 352 or a 332? I know where the ID numbers are on the block, but some of them are not listed in my book. The carb is a 2 bbl.

2) Can I put a 390 crank in it without machine work?

3) How can I tell what kind of trans is back there?


Thanks

Can't help with the numbers, but if you find out it's a 352, bore it 0.050" and put a 416 stroker kit in it....
http://www.speedomotive.com/fe_ford_..._crank_kit.htm

Welcome and sorry to hear about your dad. What are the first four digits on the block? I can look them up for you. Yes you can use the 390 crank. The tranny sounds like an old 3 sp auto that was pretty much standard then. G.

Thanks for the information. I like the 416 stroker idea, but I am concerned about boring my cylinder walls too thin. How far out could I safely take the block? Also, will this block accept cams designed for other FE engines?

Here are all the numbers that I could find on the passenger side of the block near the front. They are upside down so I had to crane my neck to see them. Some may not be correct.

B9AE6015E

CE22:4

44

15

DIF

I have a 390 FE in my '73 F250 daily driver that's been bored 0.125". It cranks and runs 180 degrees all day long.

Take a better look and see if the last letter is a "B" instead of "E". Also the CE22:4 might be OE22:4 which is the date code of 60/May/22nd 4th shift. Anyway it's a 352 block for sure. You can go to 4.05+ safely. When you sonic the block they can tell you exactly how thick it is. I'd also leave some room for future rebuilds.
G.

Simply changing the crank probably won't work. The longer stroke of the 390 crank will cause an interferance fit between your pistons and heads. Ford achieves a wide variation of engine sizes from this basic block by combining not only 3 different stroke cranks but also in the deck height of the wrist pins and rod lengths. In the 4.00 bore of the 352, the choices of other pistons in that size are limited to the 352 only. Boring your block will greatly increase your options. Boring to .050 using a 390 crank, rods, and pistons will give you a 390, but going with the same bore and using a 3.98 stroke crank will give you a 410. If your gonna spend the bucks to do crank, rods, and pistons you might as well go for the best you can get out of it.

The '59 engines have wierd heads, most aftermarket manifolds won't fit. Swap for later ones, they flow better anyway.

The 352 in 58 had machined combustion chambers, uniform and factory cc'd by the machining process., the problem was the spark plug holes were angled and there were sharp teeth in the combustion chamber. the trick is to knock out the center of an old plug and screw it into place then grind out any exposed threads and round the corners to make a good flame travel path. they were also shrouded around the exhaust valve. with a little rework they will work. compare valve sizes to a SBC. Early fe's came from the factory with solid lifter cam.s. most manifolds fit except the 427 and 428's that had taller intake ports. There are some good books out there that show how to build an fe, rework engine oiling, etc. they like more initial advance when you add cam and compression, you can rework the advance slot in the dist, braze in a stop in the end to reduce travel to 2/3 then usually set timing at 12 to 16 with 38 total depending on your fuel. Ford also used FE's in large trucks and industrial applications. with different cubic inches. Always check the crank casting numbers when you do a rebuild. shops do mix them up.
(retired Ford engineer)

most Fe's used the cruisomatic, i don't know if they used the fordomatic when it breaks you should be able to use a later model c6 out of a truck I think it should be a bolt in with factory parts.