Thread: I Found a 428SCJ "1UA" Crank, Help!

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Hi there guys.

I was at a friend of my fathers house today, And had a look in his garage, I had been told that he had a damaged 428 block and crank, So we went over to have a look.

There i found a "1UA" crank, And a block that i by the first sighting cant identify, I did not scrape away pait to look for the "SUPER" stamping on the block.

I have identifyed the crank as a "428 Super CobraJet" crank, And thats good news i guess, It needs to be turned over, It´s been stored there for over 20 years, On the floor..
Will i be able to use this crank in my 390", Or is it no idea? I dont plan to put "big bucks" into this, Just to make the crank fit.

Because of the damage to the block, I dont know if it will be worth or even possible to repair it, There has been small chips broken of in the bottomend of 2 cylinders, Maybe 9-10 mm´s up into the cylinders. And also small cuts in the cylinderwalls are present.
And i dont know, But i think it has been overbored earlier.
If i can, I will post a picture of the damage tomorrow.


All numbers i could finf on the block, Is the datecode "9B5", And above that an "E".
On the front of the block, There´s the standard "352" and above that, "57" is placed.
On the back of the block, Again there´s "352" but under it this time, "39" is placed.

Anyone who dares to ID the block?

All help is welcome!

I DONT KNOW IF YOU KNOW OR NOT BUT THE 428 CRANK NEEDS TO HAVE AN EXTERNAL BALANCED DAMPNER AND FLYWHEEL OR FLEX PLATE. IF THE CRANK TURNS CLEAN FROM THE MACHINE SHOP IT WILL FIT FINE. BUT!!!!!!! YOU WILL NEED TO GET DIFFERENT PISTONS. THE EASIEST WOULD BE TO GET 410 PISTONS.(390 BLOCK WITH 428 CRANK)THE WRIST PIN HEIGHT IS DIFFERENT THEN THE 360,390 ONES.IF I UNDERSTAND MY BOOK I THINK THE BLOCK WAS MADE IN FEBURARY 5TH (1969?) DONT QUOTE ME THOUGH!! AS FOR THE DAMAGE ON THE BLOCK THE MACHINE SHOP WILL BE ABLE TO GIVE YOU A FOR SURE ANSWER.

SCS is correct on the date code and such. Now that block and crank are worth a pretty penny. Measure the cyl bore and access damage. Worst case the damage bores get sleeved. No biggie. Look for a sandscratch "C" on the back of the block. This will ID it as a CJ/SCJ. The IUA SCJ crank is unique to other 428 cranks. It used the LeMans rods from the 427 with shorter capscrews in the 428SCJ. The IUA cranks balance was helped up front with the "cookie cutter" crank spacer. It has a counter weight on it for balance. The IUA is also missing the balance weight found on the 7th counterweight of all other IU and IUD 428 cranks. If you put both side by side the difference is quite clear. Take both to a good shop and have them checked and magged. This will be well worth your while. A SCJ block and crank is well sought after by the R code Mustang guys for restorations. You can see if the back of the block has a partial vin code. It's on the little rectangle area on the left (DR) side of the block. Right below where the head bolts on. Keep in mind some vins were stamped on the head instead of the block also. So if it's not there don't sweat it. If they check out ok I'd sell them. SCJ items are at a all time high. SCJ dampers are selling for over $300! If you do find a vin on the block the owner of the car might be interested to purchase it if he's in the registry. www.428cobrajet.org is a really good ID site. Also some of the guys on the forum are pretty sharp. They know their CJ/SCJ stuff very well. Ask the seller if he know what the SCJ came out of. It might help. Reason I say sell you can go buy a really nice CJ crank and rods and most everything needed and then some to build your engine. And cash in on some profit hopefully also. If the crank has been on it's side all these years have it check for straightness also. Store it standing up with the flange on the floor. If the crank has been in the block all these years it will be fine otherwise a turn and polish hopefully. Sorry to ramble on so.......

G.

Hi again, Thanks for your answers!

This combination of block an crank/rods have according to it´s history been placed in a Mustang in the 70´s here in Sweden.

The crank has been stored standing up, And it will be left to one of Swedens best machine shops to be checked and turned.
I had a better look at the block today, And i found a crack in it, Going through the reinforcements by one of the cylinders, its about 3-4 inches long and you can both see it clearly and feel it if you scratch with your nail.
So i guess the block is not much to use.

The crank seems to be a piece to work on, And what i intend to do, Is maybe to get it into workable shape, And then sell on Ebay or so.

BUT, I have a friend with a Galaxie out of 1964, With a 390 he had rebuilt with a 428 Crank, But using his standard 390 rods, Why should i then replace my rods if i decide to use the 1UA crank i now have, Is it just simply because they wont fit?

However, I got the cylinders measured to 4.16 or so, Not that exact, So i guess it has been overbored earlier.

The 7 rods i got along with the block had different numbers on them i think, One with a damaged piston mounted to it, It said C7AEB if i remember right, The others had a different number, Maybe with "6" in it, I´ll check next time i´m in my garage..

Originally posted by FFR428
SCS is correct on the date code and such. Now that block and crank are worth a pretty penny. Measure the cyl bore and access damage. Worst case the damage bores get sleeved. No biggie. Look for a sandscratch "C" on the back of the block. This will ID it as a CJ/SCJ. The IUA SCJ crank is unique to other 428 cranks. It used the LeMans rods from the 427 with shorter capscrews in the 428SCJ. The IUA cranks balance was helped up front with the "cookie cutter" crank spacer. It has a counter weight on it for balance. The IUA is also missing the balance weight found on the 7th counterweight of all other IU and IUD 428 cranks. If you put both side by side the difference is quite clear. Take both to a good shop and have them checked and magged. This will be well worth your while. A SCJ block and crank is well sought after by the R code Mustang guys for restorations. You can see if the back of the block has a partial vin code. It's on the little rectangle area on the left (DR) side of the block. Right below where the head bolts on. Keep in mind some vins were stamped on the head instead of the block also. So if it's not there don't sweat it. If they check out ok I'd sell them. SCJ items are at a all time high. SCJ dampers are selling for over $300! If you do find a vin on the block the owner of the car might be interested to purchase it if he's in the registry. www.428cobrajet.org is a really good ID site. Also some of the guys on the forum are pretty sharp. They know their CJ/SCJ stuff very well. Ask the seller if he know what the SCJ came out of. It might help. Reason I say sell you can go buy a really nice CJ crank and rods and most everything needed and then some to build your engine. And cash in on some profit hopefully also. If the crank has been on it's side all these years have it check for straightness also. Store it standing up with the flange on the floor. If the crank has been in the block all these years it will be fine otherwise a turn and polish hopefully. Sorry to ramble on so.......

G.

I'm sorry I have forgot your in Sweden. You might want to use the crank then as it might be just as expensive to locate one there. Look for C6AE-E for the SCJ LeMans capsecrew rods. That C7-B sounds like th odd ball as it's a CJ bolt and nut rod. A single SCJ rod is pretty easy to find on ebay. Balancing will be the trick as the SCJ used the cookie cutter crank sleeve I mentioned above. I have seen some guys make a counterweight on the damper to help correct the balance if nothing is available locally. DSC motorsport does sell a repop of this. www.dscmotorsport.com I've also see a 429 style sleeve used as it has the same kind of counterweight. I forget the details off hand but can look further into it for you. It only needed minimal work to use. Think it was either a spacer added or the sleeve shaved. So that's a good option also.

G.

Forgot to mention the block is .030 at 4.16. Probably could go .060 even. The crack could be fixed but it's expensive. Welding cast iron is a art that only a few places here in the states do well. But I'd have someone look at it. Sounds like when the rod left the building it took the block along for the ride. It could have been the capscrew was used a few to many times. They are a tri-lobe design and will fail when reused a few to many times. ARP makes new ones but the rods need to be tapped for them to work as intended. That might explain the one lone C7-B rod maybe???

G.

FFR428, Thanks alot for your help.

Ah, As i guessed then, it had an eralier overbore..
And as you say, That just might be the exploanation of why there was another rod along with the others..


I´ve decided to get the crank turned over and set up for use in the correct engine, And then put it up for auction at Ebay.
That way maybe i can help someone get the part they need, And that person will at the same time help my wallet to keep up with my Nascar project.

This might not be the best place to reveal my plan for the block, But here it goes.. It will be sandblasted and painted, And then placed in my livingroom for the great purpose of beeing a bottlestand for variuos liquids.