Thread: Buiding my 390 up!

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Hello all!, Its nice to be here. I just recently bagged a 65 Galaxie 500 for 850 bucks. It's got the 390 inside, and a 3-speed transmission.

Edelbrock 600 carb, QuickSilver Shifter, Performer Plus cam, accel superstock ignition, and some other small goodies.

I just pulled the engine last night to rebuild and inspect some tapping, and blow-by.

Anyone know which transmission I have? D4AP-70006-AA

Or what the specs are on my torque converter? F22 FOMOCO

I need to know those specs, so I have an idea where to start.

My main goal is to build a superfast galaxie. This is not my daily driver car.

It has the stock 3.0 gears. I'm preety sure it's limited slip, because I lifted the pass. tire off the ground and it wouldnt turn.

Anyone know how much my car weighs?

Alright, I'm going to need a cam. What should I go with? If I need to upgrade my torque converter to go with a good one, I'll do so.

Are 3.0 gears good to keep? Should I go with a Higher gear ratio/Lower converter, or stock gears with higher converter?

As you tell, I really need an engine buildup plan

I'll get the head and intake casting #s tonight so we'll know what they are.

Thanks all, please Reply!

You need atleast 3. 73 gears, and a bigger carb. A chevy 350 came stock with a 750 cfm carb, so you should use atleast that with a 390. Might hurt your low end, but a 600 wont be able to flow enough as the rpm picks up.

First let get some definitions straightened out. Do you want fast or quick. If you want fast, the 3.00 gears are about what you want to keep.

If you want quick (stop light to stop light) then go with a little deeper gear, keeping in mind it will be a trade off for in highway speeds and gas milage. Depending on if the car is being going to be seeing little or no highway milage you might consider factory 3.89 gears or aftermarket 4.11. If your looking for a good compromise, a 3.50 is a good gear.

You have a pretty heavy car, with an advertised curb weight listed at 4096 pounds (give or take depending on how it's optioned.

A 750 CFM carb and aftermarket intake are always good additions for this engine.

If you define how you'r planning on using your car a little better (and waht your budget for doing it is) it would help in getting you realistic recommendations.

Hey!

Im reading the curb weight is 3500 from 3 different galaxie sites.

4000 is the max curb weight, probaly with all the options, 427, and the 4 door.

I lifted up the passenger tire while keeping the drivers rear planted, and the tire would not turn. Does this mean its limited slip?

A gear swap is an easy 600+ bucks. Maybe its cheaper to leave the 3.0's in there.

Yes, I was thinking about doing the carb, intake, and valvetrain.

Some people say these engines dont need much gas, and a 650 would be perfect. Some say 700, and some say dont go 750!

Im ordering 10.1 Hyper Pistons, and ofcoarse the whole rebuild kit, pumps, ect.

The only additions to that order is a camshaft, and maybe a torque converter.

I think with a really good cam, and a great converter, the 3.0 gears shouldnt matter, and it should pick up preety fast from the start.

I was told by a tech that I do NOT want to go with a strong stall converter, and high gears. He said my engine is a torque engine, and I would just sit there and spin.

I would like to keep the cam I decide on ordering in the engine even after a set of edelbrock heads, intake, ect.

Done some thinking.

1) Forget about the gears. That can come later. Get the engine complete and inside the engine bay.

I BELIEVE my transmission is a rebuild FMX 3 speed. This transmission should handle the horsepower I am putting through.

I NEED to find out that the stall speed is for a Ford F22 Torque converter. Anyone know?

Now for cam. I want a High lift cam, with a maximum rpm range of 5500. Some guy said 5000 should be enough. Could I go with 5500? This will give me more cam options and better lift. (over .5)

How do these cams look?

CRANE
Fair idle, moderate performance usage, good mid-range HP, bracket racing, 3200-3600 cruise RPM, 9.5 to 11.0 compression ratio advised. Basic RPM 2500-5500

LUNATI

HYDRAULIC, Good idle. Very strong low- to mid-range torque and power. 1500-5000 300°
300° 223°
223° .514"
.514" .297"
.297"

COMP- I didnt find anything that would hit my sweet spot.

I want a rough idle. That crane cam seens to hit the sweet spot. What do you guys think?

My two cents worth...

Replace the oil filter adapter with the 427 service replacement part. These are still available through Ford dealers... or you can pay 5 times as much for the same part being auctioned on eBay. If you install a high volume oil pump you should also go with a higher capacity oil pan. IF you go with a HV pump, plan on installing oil restrictors in the rocker shaft feed holes in the heads. Some people just use Holley jets (size 80-90) as oil restrictors.

With an FE you might do better with a split duration camshaft. They (FE's) seem to like more duration on the exhaust side.

The factory cast iron headers flow a heck of a lot better than the log manifolds but can be expensive, even for the reproductions. Also, Sanderson makes shorty headers for the Galaxie.

For the intake you can go several ways. The factory aluminum police interceptor intake is popular along with the sidewinder intake. If you go with an Edelbrock, skip the performer and go straight to the performer rpm.

For the heads, get hardened exhaust seats installed. If you are adding adjustable rocker arms, buy the rockers, shafts and spacers as a complete kit. I have heard of incompatabilities between some of the manufacturers between the shaft OD and the rocker ID.

Ok, Just got the motor Torn apart. Everything looks really good. Im taking to to the machine shop monday for an inspection, hot tank, crank polishing and boring.

Im going to go with .030 Over Hyper Sterling Pistons.

I was told by a ford amatuer - To have the machine shop drill out some kind of oil passage to 1/2 I believe. Is he right?

If I buy the shaft, spacers, and rockers, thats atleast $500, no way. Id rather just call the company and ask them if it will work with stock spacers and shaft.

The oil filter adapter has already been replaced.

Oil pans are just too downright expensive. I'll keep using the stock one. Theres a reason why the ford engineers put it on, it will work. So put oil restricters, and a high flow pump. is that it?

The Camshaft right now is an Edelbrock Performer Plus. It has a split duration. Maybe It would be better to throw that cam back inside, and wait till I have the valve train updated to expand to a better cam? The cam looks unworn, and the lifters are still in good condition.

Heads: Buy superior or port inferior. What should I do?

Im STILL going to have to find out what the specs of my torque converter is. Anyone know what a FOMOCO F22 Is? I also have a spare F29. Where can I find this information out?

I was told by one guy to stay conservate with the stall and a the rear gears. The 390 is a high torque motor. Ill keep the 3.00's in now, and maybe replace the torque converter if needed. Gears can come very last if needed.

Oil restricters? Whats the whole point of that?

Does that sound like a good rebuild plan for now? I also need some body work, some suspension work and paint job. This sucker should be preety fast just by this rebuild.

Cyl 4, 5, and 8 had broken rings. There was also slump in the timing chain. And this car STILL PULLED HARD! im already impressed to say the least.

my dad says to go with a double roller timing chain. I guess I'll get that.

But for now, I need to get the machine work done.

Drill out oil passage?
Bore .030 over
Hot Tank
Polish crank

Would that be suffiicient enough for this monday?

I am aware of all the oil problems the fe's had. Hopefully by taking a few simple measures I'll be ok.

Im on a $1500 budget for this rebuild.

One more thing. I want to strive to get headers.

Isnt it bad to put shortie headers on big blocks? Hooker Comp Headers might be worth the extra penny because they are full tubed. What do you think?

Thanks guys, this is SO much help. I want to make sure to do this the right way.

I'm assuming that the machine shop is going to sonic test the bores and flux for cracks (close attention to the main saddles and webs) ...

The passage he is talking about is most likely from the pump to the oil filter adapter and from the adapter in to the first junction. I believe the stock size of that oil passage is 3/8". There is no reason to make it 1/2". If the machinist is concerned about oil feed from the pump he can clean up the passage and make sure there is no obstruction where it makes the 90 degree turn.

The reason for making sure you have the correct clearance on the rocker arm bores to the rocker shaft is that 90% of oil burning problems on FE's can be traced to worn or incorrectly installed rocker shafts. Loose rockers on worn shafts equals valve covers flooded with oil.

The reason for an aftermarket pan with a high volume pump is that the stock 5 qt pan can get sucked dry really quick. Some people I know just run an extra qt of oil in the stock pan with a windage tray and added baffles to the stock pan so the oil stays in the sump during acceleration. Another choice is you are handy with welding sheetmetal is increasing the capacity of the stock pan.

The reason for the oil restrictors is that most FE's are top oiler design. The oil first goes to the camshaft bearings and is then diverted to the crank main journal bearings and rocker shafts. When you restrict the oil feed to the rocker arms it forces the oil to go to the main bearings where it should have gone in the first place (corrected in the side oiler design).

I suggested shorty headers because they have less clearance problems than the long tubes and cost less than the factory cast iron headers and the shorty's are a vast improvement in letting the exhaust breath over the factory log manifolds.

tell me what to do with my 390. is there any way without spending alot of money to get some good gains in acceleration?
i think i need a bigger carb and possibly computer ignition. any helpful suggestions?
it runs fine if you all were wondering, still stalls here and there, so it's not leaving the parking lot for awhile.
if i get a new intake manifold, which should brand should i get?

CRANE
Fair idle, performance usage, good mid-range HP, auto w/2500+ converter, 3400-3800 cruise RPM, 9.5 to 11.0 compression ratio advised

Would this cam be OPTIMAL for my car?

also, is the max RPM range of 5500 ok for my car? I need to know! I am also ready to order a 2500 Stall torque converter.

I have the C5AE-U Heads. 600 CFM Carb, Acell Ignition, c4 or c6.

Im also ordering a higher flow oil pump, oil restricters, and headers.

Would you guys recommend that come for a high torque 390?

(stock 3.0 LS gears)

Car isnt that heavy. 390 isnt neccesarily a small motor.

Maybe it's a matter of perspective. Nash, what is your definition of superfast?

The Booze brothers have big body Fords that are ungodly fast, but they also have cubic yards of cash and years of experience invested in them to achieve that level of performance. Red LeBlanc runs an FE in a Mustang that is amazing, same situation.

Now with your 65 Galaxie and a budget of $1500, things are going to have to come in steps. Cheap, fast, reliable, you can only pick two. There is nothing wrong with the performer rpm cam for street/strip performance. FE's never came with C-4 transmissions. It will have either a cruisomatic/fmx or a C-6. A good thing for your budget is that the car should have a 9" rearend (probably 28 spline axles). A new ring & pinion isn't expensive and there is a wide range of gear ratios available. Depending on rear tire OD, you could use anything from a 3.50 to 4.11 gear and notice a large improvement in acceleration.

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68LTD, If you want to upgrade to electronic ignition, there are two cheap ways and one expensive way to do it.

The inexpensive ways are pick up a stock electronic distributor and amplifier box for a 1975 Ford pickup with a 360/390 or get new bushing put in the original distributor and put in a Pertronix conversion kit. The expensive way is swapping in all aftermarket. Billet distributor, big MSD box with rev control, etc.

Like I mentioned to Nash earlier the factory police interceptor intake flows much better than the normal 390 4 bbl intake. I believe there was a cast iron version so if you have a friend or two to help you with the swap, you can pick up the the iron version much cheaper than the aluminum.

Read my other post, somthing came up!