Thread: help with cam selection
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04-10-2006 09:09 AM #1
help with cam selection
i have a 1965 galaxie with a 352 in it. i want to put a cam in the car to give it a little extra power. here are the 2 choices i have narrowed it down too, i know a 352 inst the best motor to build but its all i can afford to do right now. here are my 2 choices that i have narrowed it down too i was wondering is these cams would work with a stock valve train (i.e. springs, ect.) here they are tell me whic you think would work best. the car is a daily driver, im not too worried about fuel mileage. i just want to make torque
Grind No./Type
264-MEGA HYDRAULIC Tremendous torque & good mid-range power. 9-10.5
1 compr. good idle stock converter. 3.23-3.70 axle ratio. Up to 625 CFM Carb. RPM-Range
2000-5800 Valve Lift - INT
.525 EXT
.525 Valve Lash Hot - INT
.000 EXT
.000 ADV Duration - INT
264° EXT
264° .050 Duration - INT
214° EXT
214° Lobe Center
108°
Click on product above for more information (Timing Chart & Related Products)
CAM TYPE: HYDRAULIC
PRODUCT USE: STREET
View timing chart data (details on this part)
Manufacturer:
Part#: 351264
Retail Price: $224.00
Your Price: $123.20
Category: Camshafts
Grind No./Type
270-HL HYDRAULIC Good all-around performance. Fair idle. Stock converter. 3.70-4.11 axle ratio. Up to 650 CFM Carb. 9.5
1 compr. RPM-Range
2000-6000 Valve Lift - INT
.510 EXT
.510 Valve Lash Hot - INT
.000 EXT
.000 ADV Duration - INT
270° EXT
270° .050 Duration - INT
216° EXT
216° Lobe Center
108°
Click on product above for more information (Timing Chart & Related Products)
CAM TYPE: HYDRAULIC
PRODUCT USE: STREET
View timing chart data (details on this part)
Manufacturer:
Part#: 351270
Retail Price: $220.00
Your Price: $121.00
Category: Camshafts
thanks guys
TylerHonda Motor= 1.6L
Soda Bottle= 2L
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04-10-2006 11:28 AM #2
Tyler, like most young people, you're starting at the wrong end of the car. The first thing you need for more seat-of-the-pants feeling of performance is a shorter rear gear. My best guess of what's in the pumpkin now would be a 2.80 or 3.00 ring and pinion. Ford used some fairly tall gears in those old boats.
You see, what you would be doing with a more agressive camshaft is moving the power band up higher in the rpm range. You can see for yourself in the info that you provided that the cam manufacturers are suggesting shorter gears with their cams. If you install a hotter cam with the existing rear gears, you will not be happy with the results. The car will be slower than it is now.
I know you're going to do as you wish, but consider yourself forewarnedPLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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04-10-2006 08:30 PM #3
i have considered the rear end as a factor already i have a 3.73 posi rear that i am currently installing basically i just want a cam that makes low end torque and i would like to go with an isky or something in that price range. i also have headers and am looking for an intake the motor is at the machine shop getting bored and i am stroking it to 3.78 so i will basically have a 390 right now with my current setup i am leaning towards the first cam listed but i just wanted to see if you think that would work with 3.73 gears and if i would be able to use stock components in the rest of my valvetrain also i was planning on using Rhoads lifters do think this would be a good choice?
Thank you
TylerHonda Motor= 1.6L
Soda Bottle= 2L
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04-10-2006 08:34 PM #4
also here is another cam i have found that looks decent tell me what you think
Grind No./Type
262-SUPERCAM HYDRAULIC Low/Mid-Range performance cam. 9.5
1 compr. 3.08-3.70 axle ratio. Passenger cars & trucks. Up to 625 CFM Carb. RPM-Range
2000-5500 Valve Lift - INT
.488 EXT
.488 Valve Lash Hot - INT
.000 EXT
.000 ADV Duration - INT
262° EXT
262° .050 Duration - INT
208° EXT
208° Lobe Center
108°
Click on product above for more information (Timing Chart & Related Products)
CAM TYPE: HYDRAULICHonda Motor= 1.6L
Soda Bottle= 2L
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04-11-2006 12:05 AM #5
O.K., if you're changing the gear, then you can use a little more cam. Usually the first one that is listed from any particular manufacturer is the best one to use in your first build, particularly if you aren't going to change the compression ratio of the motor. As cam grinds get wilder, the intake closing point is moved out further and further, so you need additional compression ratio to make it work. Choose the first cam on the list and you'll be fine with an otherwise fairly stock motor.
All the cam grinders offer a service for you. Just call them up and talk to a tech about the right cam for you. That way, you have the recommendation of the experts who are going to grind the cam.PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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04-19-2006 01:14 PM #6
Crane also offers a few different grinds, only three or four i believe but the middle of the road is a decent cam with good vacum if your concerned about street manners1948 Ford F1: 12.99 @104 *New Best*
"Its just a 6cyl with a cam, i promise"
67GTA in the works -15.4@90 last year w/140kmiles on all stock motor, new motor in ready to go
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04-19-2006 08:29 PM #7
you should do good with a mild cam, you shouldn't have a problem with the stock springs but call and ask to make sure.... i've seen quite a few guys put a bigger cam in and end up with coil bind which can be very hard on your valve train.... also yes rhoads lifters are good lifters.... i've used them in a couple of engines and never seen any problemsjust because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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04-20-2006 12:00 AM #8
How old are you ? I'll send you some valve springs if your a young man starting out ..In my young days milling .30 off the heads ups the ratio 1 so you'll have about 10 to 1 and compression is one of the biggest increasers by just milling .30 off the bottom and .10 off the intake (for a good seal) .Get back if I can help..RUSTY>>>>>
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04-20-2006 01:58 AM #9
MILLING X compression ??
Well denny I might disagree with you about the compression ratio .....Most 1965 352cid engines had 68 cc chambers and thats what makes the difference is changing the size of the area to compress , If it had 88 cc combustion chambers the percentage would drop ...You savey bigger means less & smaller means bigger !!!! On the intake side Its simple to realize that the head moving down deeper in the block that the distance across the top gets shorter but the intake manifold is still as wide as before...You can find a thin head gasket of course. Now you may not get a vacum leak but the rule of thumb is 10 for 30 around the redneck crowd I run with here in south Texas ...Not going into all that swept volume or clearence volume You take a 352 with 78.4 cc chambers and 8.4 to 1 compression ratio can jump to 11 to 1 with 63cc chambers thats only 15 cc difference for a 2.6 to 1 increase ...OK tyler if you need any parts just get back at me I've got FE stacked up around here knee deep ......Rusty .
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04-20-2006 10:18 AM #10
thanks for all of the info guys, im only 17 and im building this to be my daily driver, my dream one day is to put either a 390 or a 406 into the car with a
3x2 carb setup, but for now im just gonna give my little 352 a cam to wake it up a little. this is only the second motor i have built and its my first ford but. im really looking forward to rolling into the school parking lot with a big block galaxie and have the header cut-outs open, hopefully that day will come soon haha
thanks
TylerHonda Motor= 1.6L
Soda Bottle= 2L
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird