Thread: what do you guys think of this?

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here is the cam i have picked out for my 352 (now 362) will this work with the stock valve springs in my D2TEAA heads? i just want to make sure that i wont have valves slapping pistons my new pistons will have valve reliefs. so tell me what you guys think i do plan to change the springs out for better ones in the future but the stoks ones will have to do for a while

Part Number 33-230-4
Engine 1963-1976 Ford
352ci-428ci
8cyl.
Grind Number FB 280H-10
Description

Intake Exhaust
Valve Adjustment 0 0
Gross Valve Lift 0.53 0.53
Duration At 0.006 Tappet Lift 280 280

Valve Timing At 0.006
Open Close
Intake 34 66
Exhaust 74 26

These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL
Intake Exhaust
Duration At 0.05 230 230
Lobe Lift 0.3063 0.3063
Lobe Separation 110

That big of a cam isn't going to work with stock springs.... Just save up a bit more money and get the springs that are recomended for the cam, too. With all that lift, make sure you check piston to valve clearance when you assemble it.... Hopefully FFR will see the thread, he knows the FE stuff better then I do....

how do i check piston to valve clearance?

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/20e.pdf

can i pick up the tools to do that at my local auto parts store?

should be able to, a valve spring compressor to remove the springs, and you'll need an air fitting the will fit the spark plug holes, so you can pressurise the pistons and keep the valves from dropping while you change the springs, or you can put a piece of string on the valve stems and let them drop slow and then pull them back up...... to check clearances, move til valve is at full lift, look in with a flashlight thru the plug hole first, if there is visually a decent amount of space, cool, if it looks tight, use a feeler gauge and make sure you've got enough clearance that they wont be hitting remember to consider the high RPMs, i personally wouldn't allow anything under .020 for valve clearance, some people allow tighter clearance, some people allow less...

i had someone tell me that i could put playdough over the top of the psiton and bolt up the heads and chech it that way is that an ok way to do it

Thousands of engines have been done with clay on the top of the #1 piston. It usually works. . . most of the time . . . almost always . . .

Yeah, and don't use Playdough. It will not hold its shape. Use oil-based clay from a craft store.

Sorry I'm late to the party. I've been working down south while trying to sell the house here in Ct with limited computer time. Dave is right on the cam. I'd get the suggested springs to match the cam. You don't want to coil bind the springs. Spend the extra now and do it right. Plus if the stock springs are original they are more than likely pretty played out. This can save you further headaches and some $$$$ if things go south with the stock springs. You'll be better off doing it right even if you have to save the cash for the new springs. New keepers and retainers also. Good luck...


G.