Thread: first run after rebuild

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I've built a few of those engines through the years. We drilled some holes
larger but never restricted oil. The HP blocks didn't even have oil holes for the lifters. If you run a solid cam and lifters in a hyd. cam motor you would
tap and plug the holes in the valley.The rockers stands were taller than those
stock alum. ones you probably have for the 1:73 rockers also. Make sure those rocker shafts aren't scored from lack of oil. That squeek when you shut it off really sounds like a lack of oil someplace.try www.fordfe.com
those guys can pinpoint it. goodluck, Ron

How's the fuel pump and fuel pressure? I've had FP's go and they kind of sound like an internal noise. Running hot could be timing or just a tight engine. Rebuilds can run a little hot when fresh.


G.

I'm using a holley electric fuelpump, pressure regulator is set at 7 psi, wich is probably a bit on the high side, since the engine is running without actually being connected to the drivetrain.
the noise of the fuelpump isn't the problem, you can clearly distinguish that when you see me starting it up the second time in the vid...
by now i've decided it's for the best to pull it apart again and start looking!
the remarks made here will help me at least in some direction were I should look, just hope i find something that is pretty obvious. I certainly hope not that i take the thing apart and rebuild it again, with doubts about what was wrong the first time!
I know it's hard to define the problem, without actually being able to see/hear it in real life, but thanx anyway, keep the suggestions coming!
grtz,
tom

I'm still laying money on that crank scraper hitting a swinging rod. Its definately not valve train. Its very rhymical and consistant like a playing card in the old bike spokes. If it were anything else I think that the motor would have come apart by now.

I think this was already mentioned ,but check the raidius on the rods and make sure they are facing the crank radius and the non radiused sides are facing each other during dis- assembly.Just more stuff to eliminate possibilities.

Originally Posted by shawnlee28

I think this was already mentioned ,but check the raidius on the rods and make sure they are facing the crank radius and the non radiused sides are facing each other during dis- assembly.Just more stuff to eliminate possibilities.

it wasn't mentioned, but i know what you're talking about...the first two rods I fitted WERE mounted the wrong way, so I made that mistake quite early in the build, I corrected it though and payed close attention to the direction of the radius facing the right side...Okay it's fair enough to assume I still mounted two wrong

Originally Posted by blueoval67

I'm still laying money on that crank scraper hitting a swinging rod. Its definately not valve train. Its very rhymical and consistant like a playing card in the old bike spokes. If it were anything else I think that the motor would have come apart by now.

I've got a strong feeling about that scraper too!
The first time it was too tight and I had to grind it down on several places, before putting it in again...it's very likely it's still hitting...
however, the first time when I crancked the engine it bend and after several turns it settled down, I'd expect if it would hit, it would have been bend by now and quiet down...anyway, when the pan comes of, it's the first thing that gets checked out...so maybe, somewhere next week, I get my answer, without having to tare apart the whole thing.

i agree on the idea that it is something less critical, cause it seems the engine doesn't experience real trouble...
ofcourse, if it is running dry on some bearings, it is critical!

Alot depends on which way you were rotating the crankshaft when you clearanced it after you noticed it hitting. If it was in reverse of the firing order, the crank would quickly grab the scraper and bend it right back and keep hitting it. You'll see when you drop the pan. In a street engine I always liked to used windage trays to help control oil movement, especially when using a steel oil pan. Even when using studs to fasten the pan, the steel pans can deform upon tightening and slightly shift the scraper causing it to hit. You dont have that problem with fabricated aluminum pans due to their thick pan rails and stiffness. In my experience, aluminum pans are the only kind to use with crank scrapers. The horsepower gain with a crank scraper is so minimal in a street engine that I would only recommend using one in an all out race engine when you need every last ounce of horsepower out of it. Hopefully removing the scraper will cure your problem.

well...and the winner is...

the scraper!

I mean...REALLY!...damn!...talk about Incorrect fit!

http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...cat=2&size=big

http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...cat=2&size=big

http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...cat=2&size=big

I hoped to find something obvious, but...this...
well...I'm lucky that, besides leaving some scratchmarks on the counterweights, there wasn't any other damage done to the bottom-end, because, seeing this, I realise it could have ended much worse!

The other thing I found...a little bit of water in the oilpan, mmm...it looks like it came inside through the distributer shaft...
I'm having a closer look into that this week.
grtz,
Tom

Wow!! That could have been really ugly!!!

Thats a thick piece of metal !!!Glad that was it!! I would not sweat it ,that scraper was not doing a whole lot,.....well I guess it was doing a whole lot Now you know you have to post a clip of it running good after its back together!!!!

Glad to hear it was something simple like that scraper. I had a feeling that had to be it. Let us know about that water in the pan, that one might be a problem.

I bought that scraper cheap... but it was laser cut to fit an FE with 3.98 stroke crank...
I actually thought, initially; oh well, what the heck...it won't hurt to have it in there...
like mentioned before, probably the warping of the stock steel pan did push it more towards the crank...

I used the compressor today to see what came out...just oil...and both at the rockershaft and main and rod bearings it seeped thrue...so it seems to be both clean, open and waterfree...

at first run-in a waterhose blew, soaking the engine in coolant and I have strong indications it seeped down thrue the distributershaft...
I know for a fact it isn't the heads or cilinderwalls, otherwise I would have seen a white cloud coming out of the exhaust!

I will make a second "no guts no glory" - vid when ready again!
Same goes for the c6 transmission, wich is up next, but that's not even taken apart so it will take a while, before my personal "soapseries" will have its third episode

Tom

Originally Posted by blueoval67

Glad to hear it was something simple like that scraper. I had a feeling that had to be it. Let us know about that water in the pan, that one might be a problem.

Good call on the crank scraper ,....I will not forget that sound soon

Glad to hear that there is no water in the oil problem. I was thinking that maybe it could have been condensation from sitting. Probably was that o ring seal on the distributor. Get a new one on there and your good to go. Good luck with the rest of the project. After this everything should be as smooth as silk!