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Thread: 427 Top Oiler
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    webbers's Avatar
    webbers is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1922 T-Bucket
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    427 Top Oiler

     



    ANYBODY FAMILIAR WITH A TOP OR CENTER OILER? wHAT CAN i DO TO IMPROVE THE OILING, BEFORE I ASSEMBLE THE BLOCK?

  2. #2
    FFR428's Avatar
    FFR428 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 68 Cougar S code, 427 Tunnelport.
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    Send me your email addy. I have something I can send with pics. Pretty much goes thru the entire block.

    G.

  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Here's some info on rebuilding the FE.....
    http://www.engine-builder.com/ar/FordFE.pdf

    And info specifically on oiling....
    http://www.webrodder.com/article.php...&SID=19&CID=15

    You really should learn to do this web searching yourself. I had a little time and did it for you.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  4. #4
    Lord Antagonism is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    So, am I going to start an argument if I ask what people think is the best size restrictor to use in the oil ports in the heads under the rocker shafts for a mostly street driven engine? It seems like every person I ask gives me a different answer...

    A: You don't need them if you have good shafts and rockers that don't have a sloppy fit.

    B: Always put in .090 restrictors regardless of the intended use.

    C: .060 restrictors should be fine for street use and helps force more of the oil where it needs to go.

    I've had people suggest to me to use Holley jets, cut up sections of 302 pushrods, just make my own out of steel rod, etc.

  5. #5
    FFR428's Avatar
    FFR428 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    LA... I think the varied opinions are due to all the different parts out there both stock and aftermarket. Clearances, parts used, old vs new etc... Best thing to do is cut the tops off a old set of VC's and see how much pooling occurs. Every build can be a little different. I remember Denny took the head drainback approach vs the restriction. He modified the head drainbacks. Maybe he'll chime in.......it was a pretty interesting modifcation. I want to try it this time around.

    Hey D come on!!!

    Also I've had better luck using the fingered drainback tins. But these are for 66 and earlier intakes that were machined for them to fit.

    G.

  6. #6
    Tommie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Antagonism
    So, am I going to start an argument if I ask what people think is the best size restrictor to use in the oil ports in the heads under the rocker shafts for a mostly street driven engine? It seems like every person I ask gives me a different answer...

    A: You don't need them if you have good shafts and rockers that don't have a sloppy fit.

    B: Always put in .090 restrictors regardless of the intended use.

    C: .060 restrictors should be fine for street use and helps force more of the oil where it needs to go.

    I've had people suggest to me to use Holley jets, cut up sections of 302 pushrods, just make my own out of steel rod, etc.

    this mod is intended to keep the pressure on the bearings and not bleed of to the rockers. Because the stock opening at the top is quite large, you could experience oilstarvation at the narrower oilling openings at the crank and cam bearings, but only at high rpm's (5000++)

    in many cases this mod is done while at the same time swapping the stock oilpump for a HV Melling type...

    if you intend to drive it sain and at regular low rpm's, you don't need either mod, but i would recommend the swap of the stock oilpump driveshaft wich is prone to breaking in old/stock FE's.

    If you do like to put the pedal to the metal at some time and run it in the 5000-6000 rpm-range, i'd make the mod on both the pump and the topside restrictions...(I myself have a restriction wich leaves a 3mm hole, but a 4 or 5 mm hole will do just fine also!)

    Tom

    ow...I threaded the original size opening and put in a bolt wich i bored out (bore it while the head is still on, that way you can clamp it easely, then cut it's head of)
    Last edited by Tommie; 02-10-2007 at 01:53 PM.
    Going sideways through a bend isn't considered normal or even sane, so that's the way I like it!

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