Thread: well just got the 406 running only a few problems

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yup its as simple as that..... if valves were always open, you would have a lack of compression.... the only time you have valves open all the time in a cylinder is if you're at too high of an rpm and start floating valves

Originally Posted by tyler

no there is a point in every cylinders rotation when both valves are closed this would be after the intake opened as the pistion is coming back up on the compression stroke both valves would be closed until the pistion reached the top of its stroke then the spark plug would fire pushing the pisition down at this point the exhaust valve would open and the pistion would strat to travel back up pushing the exhaust out of the motor.......im pretty sure thats right

Thanks, I did not know that. How I did my 355 was just to rotate the engine over and over and keepn adjusting, but just one cylinder at a time. So It all works out . but for the future now I know that. Thanks

Tyler, if your still a bit confused go back and try my earlier post and split the firing order on a piece of paper. Remember there are opposite cylinders in the firing order that will allow you to adjust the opposite and equal cylinder. For every revolution, two pistons come up to the top of the cylinder equally. One is on overlap of the cam and the other is on compression. Always adjust the one that is on yhe back side of the cam (compression stroke of piston). The base circle of the cam is nuetral at this point. I see that you are not getting the explanations given at times and I'm just trying to show a different avenue to go down so you experience a different way to understand. Opposite cylinder is on overlap, so adjust the one that is on compression. Just split the firing order on the paper in half and it's easy to see which one you need to adjust. Do it once, it might be easier.

i tried that the other day and i have the valves adjusted now. im gonna let the motor run for a few days and see if they are all the same. i did the note card thing and that makes it pretty easy. now i just have to figure out whats wrong with these carbs

Cool.....I'm glad you're getting there. Carbs are probably needing a good cleaning with new metering block gaskets, power valves etc. Don't forget to use a vacuum gauge to see where you are for base setting so your power vale setting will be within range. It's a huge difference in drivability if the vacuum does not match P.V. setting.

yah i did that and i need a 3.5 power valve so i ordered a new one and a rebuild kit for the center carb the others seem to be working fine but as soon as i get the middle one sorted out im prob gonna rebuild them also

Tyler look into that download from HP trends. It really helped me and for $20 was money well spent. It's FE specific and for the 3x2 setup.

well itook the carb apart and put a new 3.5 power valve back in and now the thing runs perfect. so now i got the thing fixed and running great!!! hopefully i will be racing it a fun ford this weekend.....i just worry about that cruise-o-matic anyway guys tanks for all your help
Tyler

the FMX/cruise-o-matic is an indestructable transmission...... i wouldn't worry about it too much unless its got a ton of miles on it and has been abused the whole time

it slips a little going into third and it doesnt like the 3rd to 2nd down shift. i may just try to find a c6 or a toploader since i have all of the clutch pedal stuff and everything else to make it work i would just need a good transmission

why not go with a t5.... you can get all the parts you need to adapt a t5 tranny to your car for about $300... i myself am putting a t-56 in my car.... the only really expensive part is the transmission..... if i can find one in the junkyard it'll be $100..... if i have to buy a new one its gonna cost about $2200