Thread: 500 hp/550 lb-ft from a 390?
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04-11-2009 01:17 PM #16
You will spend a ton getting those numbers . Get a 460 with fat cam, late 60s 429 heads, and some dome pistons and your looking at a beast!
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04-11-2009 02:39 PM #17
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04-11-2009 11:53 PM #18
Another Cam Company
TECH,just to let folks know that Comp Cams is not paying you kickbacks(I'm kidding) lets use a Crower 16255 280HDP grind for comparison and see how that plays out.Reason I bring this up,is that on almost every forum it's Comp Cams this and Comp Cams thatSmall wonder Crane is history I'm just saying lets' support a few other USA companies.
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04-12-2009 12:09 AM #19
I think Crane's demise was it's own fault.... I use Comp Cams, too. Mainly because I have had such good results with them, and also cuz they put out a good bit of contigency money for racers!!!! Guess I see it as supporting the companies that support racing!!!! I've also had excellent service and support from Comp's tech people in cam selection and/or custom grinds.... Used to run nothing but Crane's, but in the last 8 to 10 years didn't seem to me that they were really at the top in camshaft and valve train parts.... Ran Lunati's for awhile, too but never felt there tech services was really up to par.....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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04-12-2009 12:35 AM #20
You know Jeff, not to make myself out to be a seer, but I saw this coming. The research tools at Comp so far exceeded those of Crane that it was a slam-dunk. After looking for a cam on Comp's site, then going to Crane's site, the Crane site was a joke. It looked as it it had been put together by a grade school kid compared to the Comp site.
As far as me using Comp on the Dynosims I run, the main reason is that the software came with 800 Comp profiles installed. I just pick a cam, click on it and it appears on the DynoSim screen with ALL and I mean ALL the specs on that cam. More info on my screen than is on the cam card for that cam. With any other cam that I use on the DynoSim, I first have to try to find the intake and exhaust centerlines and the duration at 0.050", then sit down at my calculator and figure the intake and exhaust closing points, then enter them into the DynoSim manually. Not a very attractive procedure when I can simply click on cams in the software and change cams in seconds.
But believe it or not, I am pretty easy to get along with and will help anyone who is halfway decent to me. If you can get me the intake and exhaust centerlines and 0.050" duration for both sides, I'll figure the timing events and install the numbers.Last edited by techinspector1; 04-12-2009 at 12:38 AM.
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04-12-2009 02:32 AM #21
Comp Cams was the company I was looking at to begin with so no complaints from me there. I'd also considered Lunati but...
I wouldn't mind a 385 series engine (as a matter of fact, I've got a 429 to build for my 71 Mach1), I just don't see cutting up the shock towers on my 67 to fit it in the engine compartment...
FE's are expensive but worth it in my opinion. Besides, I've got several and waste not, want not. And it's correct for the year....not that it matters all that much but still....
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04-12-2009 08:41 AM #22
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04-12-2009 10:40 AM #23
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04-12-2009 12:50 PM #24
I was able to find a timing chart on Crower's website and get the timing events....then calculate the intake centerline and exhaust centerline from that information.
http://crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html#108
Crower 16255 hydraulic flat tappet, 280/288 degrees advertised, 224/232 degrees @ 0.050", Intake Centerline 104 degrees ATDC, Exhaust Centerline 112 degrees BTDC, Lobe Separation Angle (Lobe Center) 108, Theoretical valve lift intake 0.549", exhaust 0.560". Overlap 12 degrees @ 0.050". Timing events are: Intake opens 8 degrees BTDC, closes 36 ABDC, Exhaust opens 48 BBDC, closes 4 ATDC. Dynamic compression ratio with this cam and 9.9 static compression ratio is 8.647:1, so tighten up the squish if you are planning on running on pump gas without detonation.
Everything is the same as the other DynoSim, just the cam was changed. This cam is shorter and clicks off at 5550, but makes a nice torque curve from 3500 to 5200. It also makes more torque down low which would be better for a heavy vehicle or tall gear.
RPM HP TQ
2000 170 446
2500 214 449
3000 273 477
3500 337 506
4000 399 524
4500 449 524
5000 491 516
5500 505 483
6000 457 395
6500 404 326
Here's the first DynoSim so you can see 'em together....
RPM HP TQ
2000 160 419
2500 196 412
3000 248 434
3500 319 478
4000 388 509
4500 460 536
5000 512 538
5500 535 510
6000 550 481
6500 514 415Last edited by techinspector1; 04-14-2009 at 11:45 PM.
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04-20-2009 07:05 AM #25
Update: Scat H beam rods have just arrived and the block and crankshaft will (should) be heading to the machine shop this week. Speed Pro forged pistons will be ordered as soon as my machinist gives me the go-ahead on which overbore will work. Now if I can just find a bargain on Edelbrock heads and those Erson rockers....
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04-20-2009 12:32 PM #26
It's hard to use the words "bargain" and "Edelbrock and Erson" in the same sentance.
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04-20-2009 05:25 PM #27
60069 $740 each on ebay stores. About what you'd pay for AFR's for a SBC.
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04-22-2009 07:01 PM #28
Does anybody have suggestion on bearings? I need to get a set of cam bearings on the way and will need the rest of 'em soon.
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04-23-2009 01:08 AM #29
I might us Clevite 77 "P" series rods and mains. There are three different main sets depending on the year of the crank/block and there are three different chamfers used on the edges of the bearing shells. For a stock production crank, you want P series bearings.
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/
On the left side of the page, click bearings, then click Clevite Main and Rod Bearings, scroll down to Ford.Last edited by techinspector1; 04-23-2009 at 01:11 AM.
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05-05-2009 06:37 AM #30
Thanks for all the input guys but I could use a bit of clarification regarding valve springs, camshafts and cylinder heads. I suppose I'm going to suck it up and get the Edelbrock heads but I'm unsure about the valve springs already installed on the fully assembled version. Do I go with those as supplied or get the bare heads, buy valves, springs retainers and use the springs that come with the camshaft? I'm planning on using the recommended Comp Cam by the way...
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