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Thread: OBSESSED HELP ME! I cannot tell what engine I have.
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    artymac is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Question OBSESSED HELP ME! I cannot tell what engine I have.

     



    Allright I thought I would try starting another thread to get some attention =). I've been trying like hell to ID what FE engine I have. The car is a 1968 Galaxie 500 XL. The only real marking I can ID is the block casting date. which is 8F18( 68' JUNE 18)
    Can I utilize this date to find out what it is? I think all the other markings have been ground down or something. I measured the stroke with #1 at TDC and #4 at BDC(heads off- short block). It looked to be a bit more than 3 and 3/4 inches. and the bore is between 4 and 4 1/4 inches. Near the casting date at the oil filter, there is a W with what looks like a screw stamped on each side of it and a V. There is an X in the oil valley. Again the Heads are
    C8AE-H. One thing I noticed when I put an aftermarket 390 Edel performer intake on it that was not a very good fit. Does this mean maybe the heads have had some work? Could they be warped? I'm looking at getting a crate motor but I'd hate to let a good thing go if it would be worth rebuilding.
    THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR THE HELP!

  2. #2
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    A 390 is 4.05 bore, 3.78 stroke. That seems to be what you have, yours could be overbored at a rebuild in the past. As for your intake not fitting "right", that's a common thing with FE's. There are so many critical measurements it's easy for a manufacturer to screw up a little on one of them. Most common I've seen is the valve cover surfaces not at the same level as the one on the heads. Usually doesn't matter much, just use silicone for a gasket.

  3. #3
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    You say the bore is between 4 and 4 1/4? How close to 4 1/4???? a 427 is 4.23, just under that. If that's what you have, boy, that's a keeper!

  4. #4
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    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Time to buy a new tape measure if the closest you could figure was somewhere between 4 and 4.25. (or maybe your eyes are like mine )

    Don

  5. #5
    artymac is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks much fellas. I know it is know the bore is not at 4.23, that would be nice but just not my luck. Any ideas on a quality crate engine source?

  6. #6
    Daffy427's Avatar
    Daffy427 is offline Banned Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by R Pope View Post
    You say the bore is between 4 and 4 1/4? How close to 4 1/4???? a 427 is 4.23, just under that. If that's what you have, boy, that's a keeper!
    That one would be easy to spot with it's cross bolted main caps
    I remember when hot rods were all home made.

  7. #7
    FFR428's Avatar
    FFR428 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 68 Cougar S code, 427 Tunnelport.
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    It's possible the heads were milled. Also possible the Edel intake is the problem. BTW my 68 cougar came from a nice lady in Lompoc Ca.

  8. #8
    artymac is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Yeah Lompoc is a nice quiet little town. I'm getting ready to try and pull this engine. I'm still not sure what it is yet. Once I do pull it... Isn't there a way to identify the engine by the type of Crank it has? How about the pistons?
    Just trying to learn every possible avenue for ID- ing the thing. If the bore is original and is between 4" and 4.25" wouldnt that make it a about 4.13"(428 FE)?
    Thanks! and Happy 4th of July.

  9. #9
    Chris_082384 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1968 Ford XL Galaxie 500 390FE
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    Sounds like me and you have the same car, got any pics. I have a 1968 XL 500 galaxie with a 390fe and the heads say C6AE-H as well.

  10. #10
    FFR428's Avatar
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    A 4.05 bore block is a 390 (3.78 crank stroke) or a 360 (3.50 crank stroke) or even a 410 with a 3.98 crank stroke. And yep 4.13 bore block would be a 406 (3.78 crank stroke) or 428 (3.89 crank stroke).

    Crank ID there should be a number stamped into the edge of a counterweight.
    These are some of the more common one's you find......

    3.50 stroke 2T or 2TA
    3.78 stroke 2U or 3U
    3.98 stroke 1U or 1UB.
    There are other numbers so if you find something different post what it is.

    Pistons should have a part number and bore size on them. Rods will have a number on the side of them.

    Pretty simple to ID everything. Shouldn't be a problem.

  11. #11
    artymac is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Here is a number I found on the back, driver's side of the block. : 8J175838.
    I havent got into the timing cover yet. I've got the Steve Christ big block rebuild book and it says something about 428s having dishtop pistons with 4 eyebrows, I have those. I also found a number on the connecting rods- C7AE-B
    Last edited by artymac; 07-04-2009 at 05:38 PM.

  12. #12
    artymac is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    found out what I actually have...

     



    I pulled my 390 and after removing a piston I was able to tell that is a 2V 390.
    There were no distinguishing exterior marks. Is there any difference between a 2 and 4 barrel engine, on the bottom end? I'm looking maybe just getting a crate short block. If I do would there be anything specialized as far as putting the engine back together? I understand everything must be torqued correctly. As far as deck hieghts??? checking clearances? this is where I lack the expertise. Should I get my heads re-done? or checked for straightness?
    The heads are C8AE-H... would this be worthwhile or should I just invest in a long block?

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