Thread: aluminum block/heads?

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Any word on the reliability of these? I have no experience with these.

I'm interested and don't mind spending the cash, tho I'm curious about the reliability vs iron.... lets say 400hp with fairly constant use.

thanks
Drew

Not a problem....depending on whose parts you buy... Some of the Chinese cast stuff is junk, but the reliable companies like Dart, Dononvan, World, and a few others build some very, very durable aluminum pieces..... When you're shopping you would want to make "value" and not "price" the issue.

Hi Drew,
If you're looking for a aluminum FE block they are really well made and very reliable. I'm not sure if you make only 400 hp with a FE combo. I've built a few Shelby 482 engines. The ONE BIG note is to build a roller cam engine. Todays flat tappet cams can fail so easy and that can cost thousands to fix.
If you're serious about building a Shelby 482 combo, I have everything in stock and an engine machine shop & dyno to test before shipping.

Well Mike, (dunno if you read my intro post).

I've got a small 360fe I'm going to play with. In the meantime I'll slowly get the funds and parts to build my 'perfect engine' in the shop.
Figure this way I can break everything on the cheap engine and learn from there.

But I'd definatly build it all myself. I have rebuilt 10,000+ lbs engines but oddly enough never built any gas engines. It's kinda a learning experience/hobby.... we all do different things for fun I guess.

Drew

Depends on what you're doing.

In my experience the aluminum heads are great - no issues of note. The lowest cost parts for an FE are the Edelbrocks - we sell bunches of them - and they are basically a MR/CJ level replacement part as delivered. Easily upgraded to serious performance as desired - we CNC port them. Blue Thunder heads will make more power but are likely overkill on a 360/390 based build. The Eds are cheap enough that they're almost better than rebuilding stockers.

Aluminum FE blocks are another deal. They have their place in cars where the 100 lb. reduction in weight is important - like a Cobra for road race work - but they also have their own issues. Cold bearing clearances need to be pretty tight since they grow with heat. Means that a 4WD guy in the Dakotas don't want one if he's planning on playing in the snow and won't fully warm it up first. The cam bearings need to be pinned in place or they will walk out....learned that one the hard way. Head gaskets like to seep fluids unless you glue them up.

Iron blocks will cost less, make a bit more power, keep the threads, and tolerate "bad driver behavior" better.