Thread: What do you 427 FE Pros think

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So I'm a young pup building my first Ford Hot Rod. I chose a 1967 Mustang Fastback. It is an original GT 4 speed S Code car. Unfortunately pretty much everything was gone when I got it. I have several questions about what I've purchased. All suggestions and oppinions would be appreciated. as I am just about to put it all together and can still return certain things and swap them out if need be. I am buiding the car to be a street warrior.

I purchased a new nodular 9" strange housing with a trac loc and 3.89 gears. Moser 31 spline axles and disc brake set up. Will these gears be too tall.

My tranny is out of a 68 GT5000 mustang. I think this will work but not sure if I am going to miss having OD?

My motor parts are listed below. Please let me know the good the abd and the ugly.

427 Cross Bolted Block (Casting # C3AE-6015-AB)

Cast Date Code 3F3/Stamped Date Code 3H26

Sonic Mapped/Tested Great

Bore & Honed .040 Over Stock with Torque Plates

Line Honed and Square Decked when Machined

Deck Height ..0125

New Cam Bearings Installed



C4AE-E 427 Harmonic Balancer



C4AE-B Crankshaft Machined 10/10 with New Bearings



C7AE-B 428 Rods,

Polished Beams

Re-bushed and Narrowed Ends for the KB199 Pistons

Re-sized Big End with Milodon Bolts



New KB199+ .040 Pistons with New Rings

Ring End Gap is ..018 when Test Fitted



C4AE-G Heads with 69cc Chamber

Larger 1.66 Exhaust Valves

Double Springs for .550 Lift and HD Retainers

Gasket Port Matched Intake and Exhaust Ports.

Positive Seals on Intake and Poly Seals on Exhaust.

Fresh Valve Job with about 1,000 Miles on Heads.

Date Codes are: 5E22 & 5D23

M/T Aluminum Valve Covers



New C5HM holman moody Cam (Same as Ford C3AZ-AA)

Duration. 298 Int. and .298 Exh.

Lift .526 Int. and .526 Exh.



C3AE Dual Quad Intake in Excellent Condition

Excellent Threads, No Cracks, No Bottom Burn Out (Includes Bottom Cover)

Rebuilt Holley List 1850 600 CFM Carbs

New 2x4 Linkage and Fuel Log

Dual Quad Oval Air Cleaner



Other misc. parts that come with engine:

Nice adjustable rocker assembly and shields, lifter valley pan, C3AE-A timing cover and pointer, cam bolt, washer and eccentric, Cloyes timing chain and gears, crank spacer and oil slinger

As mentioned earlier all advise is greatly appreciated.

Ryan Lofton
Go big or go home!

Don't know about the .040 over. Seems like alot for that block. Never took mine
more than .030. Too much flex maybe.
Don't know about the 600 Holleys either.
At any rate good luck

c4ae block won't bolt to stock motor mounts without modifications. block doesn't have enough bolt holes.

i would like to drive it on the street a little but its primarily for the strip and show. I am now running onto a problem finding a brake booster that will clear my valve covers. any suggestions?

Do you have the tall cast alum covers??? They cut the fins off the rear of the left one to clear the booster

Did you mount the engine higher than stock location??? Its tight around the booster and the addition of adapter plates on the front motor mounts cause a problem.

There are some brackets out there to relocate some steering pieces to give more room for headers

ive got M/T valve covers. I used basically the 67 390 engine mounts. i assume that the 427 doesnt sit up any higher but I dont really know. I know that the mounts had an extra hole in comparison to my 63 block, but I just didnt use it.

Take a look in summit catalog they have several 7 inch dia boosters listed

If you plan on driving that thing at all you are definately going to miss overdrive. I don't see anything else I would get too hung up on but I personally wouldn't build a car without OD if I planned to drive it at all. A TKO600 would be great or a T5 with G Force gears would work as well. The beauty of the T5s is that they're light, small, turn easy and shift nice. They also fit the Mustang tunnels very nicely and shifter location is perfect. The TKO is stronger, heavier, turns a little harder but in the 67-68 Mustangs should still fit the tunnel without cutting it. In the 65-66 Mustangs you've got to raise the tunnel quite a bit.

I know youre right about the OD, but I was tryong to stay with mostly parts that were available around 1967. I did go with a hydraulic clutch setup and 4 wheel discs but that was really my only rewtromods I did to it. well that and a hidden sound system.


I'll check out those brake boosters. Thank you for the advice

One 7" might work, but it might take two of them in tandem. To know for sure, call and talk to one of the techs here....
http://www.mpbrakes.com/

With your cam I wouldn't run power booster.

Weather is starting to get nice and its time to get back to work on the car. If you wouldn't recomemnd a booster then whatwould you recommend? Manual brakes? Hydroboost? maybe a electric vacuum pump? any suggestions?

For your power brakes, look into a GN powermaster as used on the Buick Grand Nationals and the BIG Chevy & Pontiac station wagons.

I have one in my Cobra replica and my 51 Merc ( 4.6L ) where space was limited.

They are pricey but work great

My 68 Cougar has stock power disc brakes. Headlights are also vacuum operated. For my 427 build I'm looking at a heavy duty electric vacuum pump from Master Power Brakes. www.mpbrakes.com it'll hold a constant 18-20" of vacuum. $345 part # AC2724K. My cam is the old NOS solid "D" grind .600/.330. There are also vacuum canisters at Jegs/Summit for under $100 that might be ok for your app. And vac pumps you can buy to run off the engine but are a bit costly. I often wondered if a stock smog pump might be a plausable solution. No idea there really just thinking out loud. My 86 GN had the Powermaster system and yes they were expensive to replace. GM units rebuilt were like $800 years ago IIRC. My 67 GT500 came with a aftermarket set of those same MT valve covers. They fit fine on the 428 and clearance around the booster was ok. If your using the stock 3 pc factory motor mount the stock block plate only needs the top hole drilled in the block plate for the earlier 2 bolt blocks. No spacer plate needed. So be sure you have the all correct FE mounts for the Mustang/Cougar. Mansfield Mustang sells everything and has pics onsite to compare yours with. Think Mustangs Unlimited too. www.mansfieldmustang.com

so i got the electric vacuum boost ordered today. I think that should give me the vacuum I need. so after calling MP brakes I learned how to fix my valve cover issue. Apparently the booster on pwer brake mustangs in 67 is located a couple inches higher than where the non power master cylinders are. I looked at the firewall and sure enough the dimples for the correct holes are there. so this weekend I will be drilling them out and relocating the brake booster to the proper spot. Also I leaned that there is a different brake pedal for power break 67 mutangs. its a couple inches longer. it too is on the way and should alleviate my problem. Thank you for all the information guys.