Thread: idle very low

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I own a 62 t-bird with a auto lite4100 carb.Just the other day everything was running smoothly at park and driving. So I took it upon myself to spray gumout into the bowls and let it settle there for a few minutes. I then sprayed around inside and outside of the 4100. Took the car out several hours later when coming to a light it felt it wanted to stall out and felt a lot of vibration my temp needle and the fuel needle had a little giggle in it. Up to then everything was perfect. I feel some dirt got lodged some where. I dont want to spend 500.00 dollars to send it to Pony carbs. Iam not talented enough to rebuild the carb myself. Is there any way to look for this piece of dirt thats restricting the idle passage way. Could I go through the automactic ckoke orifice and use some compress air or would that damage something else. Looking for a shortcut if at all possible Thanks out there.

If you're not up to doing it yourself, should be a competent carb guy in a local shop that would look things over for you and check the passages if you took the carb (or the car) to him.....

Originally Posted by larjones

Took the car out several hours later when coming to a light it felt it wanted to stall out and felt a lot of vibration my temp needle and the fuel needle had a little giggle in it.

Since you said the gauges jiggled a little and the tendency of the motor to want to stall out, I'm going way out on a limb here to suggest that it is an electrical ground problem, not a carb problem.

Clean all the paint and grime off a place on the firewall where you can drill a hole and get to it from the inside of the car. Clean a place on the engine block and on the frame of the car just the same way, down to shiny, clean metal. Count up what length of cable it will take to span from the firewall to the block to the frame. What I usually do is to make 2 cables. One end of cable #1 goes to the firewall, where you run a bolt and nut through the cable end and tighten it down. The other end of cable #1 goes to the frame. One end of cable #2 also secures to the frame. The other end of cable #2 goes to the engine block. Now, you have tied the body to the frame to the motor. Use RTV to cover the connections front and rear to prevent moisture from oxidizing the connections.

What I usually use for the cables is #4 welding cable from the welding supply store. They have copper ends also to crimp onto the cable. In addition to crimping, I solder the ends on and install heat shrink sleeves.