Thread: camshaft

Tweet

Hello!
A little question. Got a new comp cam cl-33-240-4 camshaft from a friend for free. Wonder if it's worth too mount it. Is a 390 which is drilled 030 with Edelbrock RPM intake.TRW pistons, h-rods, and ported Edelbrock RPM heads.
Free is always good Want it on the strip and the street. The car is ford mustang 67.

Sorry for the bad English!

Originally Posted by Johan78

Free is always good

Not in the case of a used flat tappet camshaft it isn't. This cam should be used only in the same block it came out of with the same lifters on the same lobe locations. Sometimes you can skate by with a complete set of new lifters on an old cam, but in today's world of motor oils without the extreme pressure lubes in them, it's a gamble.

As you hold the cam out in front of you longways left to right, lay a straightedge on the cam lobes, one at a time. The lobes are cut on a slope longways on the cam blank, so that there is a high and a low side to the lobe as you look at it left to right along its length. This allows the lobe to contact the lifter with the high side of the lobe to spin the lifter in its bore. If the lobes are flat, with no slope to them, in other words with the high side of the lobes worn down, then the cam is junk.

Here's the same cam new, so it ain't like the end of the world. It's only 140 bucks for a new one. That will look reeeeaaaaalllll cheap to you if you run the other cam and it roaches a couple of lifters and you have to tear the whole motor back down to clean out all the shrapnel before buying yet another cam and starting over.

Hello.
The camshaft is complete with a lifter and is brand new in box. So never used. He received / ordered the wrong camshaft. Do you think it is a god cam for street?

Agree with Louey concerning application. Manual trans or loose converter with automatic.

I would not use this cam, though, under any circumstances. These damned Extreme Energy cams are noisy and have a more than better chance that they will roach a couple of lifters due to the racical (that's why the grind is called "Extreme") grind profile of the ramps. You can make the most horsepower if you yank the valve open, hold it open longer and then slam it shut quickly. This theory works only so far though and in my personal opinion, I think Comp has carried the whole mess to an unreasonable conclusion.

Trust my 50+ years of dinkin' with this stuff and get yourself a roller tappet camshaft and kit. Remember I said this when you have to tear the motor completely down to clean out the shrapnel from the roached flat tappet cam and start over.

It is a 4 speed manual gearbox, but has a c6 with a 2500 stall as well. Does anyone know how many degrees the ignition should be on these magnums cam?

Johan

Originally Posted by Johan78

It is a 4 speed manual gearbox, but has a c6 with a 2500 stall as well. Does anyone know how many degrees the ignition should be on these magnums cam?
Johan

Here it is all laid out for you. Just choose whatever comes closest to your combination and find the crankshaft ignition lead on the far right of the table. Determine what total advance your combustion chambers will support and add the difference into the weights, example, 16 at the crank plus 18 in the weights = 34. All the advance should be in by 2800-3000.
http://www.barrygrant.com/demon/default.aspx?page=5