Thread: ford 361 rocker help

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I have three different rockers on the driver's side of my 58 edsel ranger. Any idea if they are all correct?
rocker.jpg

Been a while since I heard of one of them----I put one of those engines in my 55 ford----


If those rockers fit the shaft good, line up over the valve tip good, and are not wore excessively at the valve contact area, I'd say you could run them--------

A bit of comparing will tell you: Slide all three of them onto a bare shaft, and lay them on a flat surface with the valve tip on the surface; if they all line up (match up) at the valve tip, the shaft, and the pushrod socket, they are the same, regardless of what they look like. Since the 361 was used in Lincolns, Mercurys, as well as Edsels over a span of years, there may have been a number of design changes in the dies over the years, or from one provider to another; as long as the geometry is correct, and the shaft fits right, I would say they are good to go.

securedownload-1.jpegsecuredownload-2.jpegGreat information. The rockers seem pretty uniform. Should I be concerned about the scoring / scratches on the shaft?

For the rockers,
I am going to run these through the vibratory bowl one more time and clean the oil passages. Should I run a hone through them?

For the shaft, should I remove the plugs by drilling one side and running a dowel through the shaft? Do you recommend a hot tank or a rifle cleaning brush?

I kind of want to buy one of those old school valve resurfacers to reface the rocker pads. Has anyone had luck with those machines?

Thanks again!

Originally Posted by 58ranger

Attachment 56822Attachment 56821

I kind of want to buy one of those old school valve resurfacers to reface the rocker pads. Has anyone had luck with those machines?

Thanks again!

in the picture you just posted it looks like you have adjustable rockers .. yet in your other pictures thay are not .. can you post a better picture of the rocker shaft in the background .

if you remove any material from the rocker pads on a non adjustable type set up you will affect the valve adjustment ..

If it were mine, I'd replace the shafts.

your rocker shaft s are shot .i can rebuild the rocker s re bush and re arc the tips if bushing are not bad i can just re arc the tips about $25. to do all 16 rockers . rockers shafts can be metal sprayed and reground to size if new ones can not be found .i deal with a shop that has built shafts up for me that can do that as well if you can not find anyone near you i can rebuild them

Oh, that other shaft is actually an Australian ford 250-2v inline six with adjustable rockers, now I see the confusion.
The FE rockers are non adjustable. I had the inline rocker out, because I was going to do all of the rockers at once.
Let me check on availability of replacement shafts. Thanks again

Originally Posted by 58ranger

Oh, that other shaft is actually an Australian ford 250-2v inline six with adjustable rockers, now I see the confusion.
The FE rockers are non adjustable. I had the inline rocker out, because I was going to do all of the rockers at once.
Let me check on availability of replacement shafts. Thanks again

Shafts are available at Rock Auto Parts $25.79 each, SEALED POWER Part # RS621. Probably the cheapest anywhere. They also have individual rocker arms, but $$$$

I have some on order with advance auto. Thanks for the help.

Are there any options for rust prevention with the rocker arms. Do people phosphate these parts?

Got the new shafts. They appear to be the same except the new ones have fewer oiling holes and the one hole is recessed. This shouldn't matter right?rocker1.jpg

Should be good to go.

Originally Posted by 58ranger

Got the new shafts. They appear to be the same except the new ones have fewer oiling holes and the one hole is recessed. This shouldn't matter right?Attachment 56862

1. Make certain that the oiling holes are toward the heads, not towards the sky. (Ask me how I know this.)
2. Make certain to use the correct size core plug and cotter pin retainer in the ends of the shafts. Use no sealant.
3. For a street motor, use the separator springs, ala stock. For a competition motor, mock up the assembly, measure between rockers and make mild steel tubes and precision ground flat washers to replace the springs, leaving about 0.010" lateral play for each tube. Position each rocker pad exactly over the valve tip and use washers and tubes to fill in the gaps. I learned this by talking with Racer Brown on the phone about 40 years ago.
4. Remember that this arrangement was produced by the factory to contend with stock valve springs. Expect problems at the rocker/shaft interface if stronger springs are used. Hard chroming the shafts can delay the problem. I think someone makes a roller bearing shaft system, but they come pretty dear.