Thread: condensation fe 390
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08-23-2014 02:23 AM #16
Two hours later, and its still 9 psi!
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08-23-2014 05:56 AM #17
Sure does seem to hold pressure well!!! Can you tell approximately where the water on the floor is coming from on the engine?Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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08-23-2014 06:47 AM #18
It comes from the hoses, both the upper and the lowest! Nothing on the engine side, but on the radiator! Then some leaking on the hoses going to the heater! The biggest leak is the upper radiator hose! Tried tightening everything as mutch as possible, but dosent seem to matter!
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08-23-2014 07:08 AM #19
I will offer an idea that if you (or some previous person) severely over tightened the radiator hoses in the past you may have a deformed neck connection, crimped out of round a bit. I'd pull the hoses again and check the radiator connections unless someone has a better idea.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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08-23-2014 08:10 AM #20
Well, for sure the cooling system is nice and tight!!! Sounds like the engine just doesn't run warm enough as mentioned, I'd go with Tech's advise on a warmer thermostat and see what happens!!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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08-23-2014 08:21 AM #21
If its collecting condensation in the valve covers its running warm enough to vaporize the water its just not vented correctly for the flow needed to get it out to the atmosphere OR INTO THE INTAKE SO IT CAN GO OUT THE EXHAUST----------------
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08-23-2014 09:44 AM #22
What could i do to give it better ventilation? Im running a pvc system on it allredy? Would it be better to have an open system with filters on both valve covers? Or is there another pvc valve avalible that does this?
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08-23-2014 09:48 AM #23
I have changed my termostat to the 195, while changing the hoses! But havent had time to test it yet!
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08-23-2014 09:56 AM #24
Warm it up good and let us know how it works out!!!
As Jerry mentioned, last FE I ran had a hose off the base of the carb to the forward side of the left valve cover and a PVC valve in the cover. Never had any problems with it. Not sure your hose to the air cleaner is going to draw enough air to keep the vapors cleaned out of the valve covers.....?????Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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08-23-2014 10:04 AM #25
No, i got the same setup, pvc to carb on one side and hose to air cleaner on the other side!
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08-23-2014 11:25 AM #26
Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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08-29-2014 09:24 AM #27
Now i have testdriven it with the 195 termostat a couple of times! Its the same with the new termostat exept that i have a litle higher operating temperatur on the engine! But when it has cooled off and i take the valvecover off i still have a white moisture inside of it! But as always, the oil looks like new on the stick!? Should i just forget about the condensation and drive it?
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08-29-2014 09:34 AM #28
That's exactly what I would do, paying attention to the coolant level (assuming you fixed the leaks at the hoses?) and oil color for a while, but not worrying about it. My '05 Jeep, bone stock engine almost always has some creamy off white residue around the oil filler cap in the valve cover, and it runs at 210F.Last edited by rspears; 08-29-2014 at 09:50 AM.
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird